The only completely intact walled city in Ireland, with a peace bridge across the Foyle and a story that runs through centuries of Irish history.
Derry~Londonderry, on the River Foyle in the north west of Northern Ireland, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Ireland. A monastery was founded here by St Columba in the sixth century. The city is known by two names, Derry and Londonderry, reflecting its complex history, and many people simply call it the Walled City.
In 2013 it was the first UK City of Culture, and it has transformed itself into a lively, welcoming place, famous for its music, its festivals and the biggest Halloween celebration in Europe. Its walls, museums and murals tell a story that runs through centuries of Irish history. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. The city walls
The walls of Derry were built between 1613 and 1619, to protect the new settlers who came from England and Scotland. They are the only completely intact city walls in Ireland, and one of the finest examples of walled cities in Europe. They have never been breached, which gave the city the nickname the Maiden City.
The walls run for about a mile around the old city, and you can walk along the top of them all the way around. The walk takes about an hour. Along the way are cannons, gates and wonderful views over the city and the river.
In 1689, the city survived a famous siege lasting one hundred and five days, when its people held out against the army of King James II. Many died of hunger. The siege is still remembered in the city today.
Guided walking tours tell the story of the walls and the city. The walls are free to walk and open all year. They are the best way to understand the city.
2. The Peace Bridge
The Peace Bridge is a graceful curving footbridge and cycle bridge across the River Foyle, opened in 2011. It links the city centre with Ebrington, on the eastern bank. Its two arms, which curve past each other, are designed to look like a handshake across the river.
The bridge was built as a symbol of reconciliation between the communities on either side of the river. Walking across it is a lovely experience, with views up and down the river. It is lit up at night.
Ebrington, at the eastern end of the bridge, is a former army barracks that has been transformed into a public space, with a large square, restaurants and a hotel. It hosts concerts and events. It has views back across the river to the walled city.
The bridge is popular with walkers, runners and cyclists. It is a short walk from the Guildhall. It is one of the symbols of the new Derry.
3. The Guildhall
The Guildhall, just outside the city walls beside the river, is a grand neo Gothic building completed in 1887. It is the city’s civic centre, and it has been rebuilt after fires and bombings over the years. Its clock tower is a landmark.
Inside, the Guildhall is famous for its stained glass windows, which tell the story of the city from its early history to more recent times. The main hall has a magnificent organ. It is free to visit.
The Guildhall has an exhibition about the Plantation of Ulster, the settlement of English and Scottish people in the seventeenth century, which shaped the city. It hosts concerts and events. It is a beautiful building.
Guildhall Square, in front of the building, is a public space where events and festivals are held. It is the heart of the city. The walls rise just behind it.
4. The Tower Museum and St Columb’s Cathedral
The Tower Museum, inside the city walls, tells the story of Derry from its earliest times to the present day. It is in a building designed to look like a medieval tower house. From the top, there are wonderful views over the city and the river.
The museum also has an exhibition about La Trinidad Valencera, a ship of the Spanish Armada that was wrecked off the coast of Donegal in 1588. Objects recovered from the wreck, including cannons and personal belongings, are displayed. It is a fascinating story.
St Columb’s Cathedral, also inside the walls, was built in 1633, and it was the first cathedral built in Britain and Ireland after the Reformation. It has relics from the siege of 1689, including a cannonball that was fired into the city with the terms of surrender. Its chapter house has a small museum.
The cathedral is open to visitors, with a small charge. Both the museum and the cathedral are a short walk from the Guildhall. Allow a couple of hours for both.
5. The Museum of Free Derry and the Bogside murals
The Museum of Free Derry, in the Bogside area just outside the city walls, tells the story of the civil rights movement in Derry in the 1960s and 1970s. It covers the events of Bloody Sunday in 1972, when soldiers shot dead unarmed civil rights marchers. It is a powerful and moving museum.
The museum uses personal stories, photographs and objects to tell what happened. Many of the exhibits were donated by the families of those involved. It is an important place to understand the history of the city.
The Bogside is famous for its murals, painted on the gable walls of houses by local artists. Known as the People’s Gallery, they tell the story of the civil rights movement and the Troubles. The famous Free Derry Corner, a wall with the words You are now entering Free Derry, stands nearby.
The murals can be seen on a walk through the Bogside, or on a guided tour with a local guide. The views from the city walls down to the Bogside are striking. Visitors are welcome.
6. The coast and Donegal
Derry is close to some of the most beautiful coastline in Ireland. Mussenden Temple, a small round temple perched on a clifftop above the Atlantic, is about forty minutes east, at Downhill Demesne. It is looked after by the National Trust, and it is one of the most photographed places in Northern Ireland.
Benone Strand, below the cliffs, is a huge sandy beach stretching for miles. The Causeway Coast, with the Giant’s Causeway, is about an hour away. The drive along the coast is spectacular.
Across the border in County Donegal, the Inishowen Peninsula has wild scenery and beaches. Malin Head, at its tip, is the most northerly point of the island of Ireland. The Grianán of Aileach, an ancient stone fort on a hilltop, has views over the lakes and hills.
A car or a driver for the day is the easiest way to explore the coast and Donegal. The roads are quiet and the views are wonderful.
Festivals
Derry hosts the biggest Halloween celebration in Europe, with a carnival parade, fireworks over the river and events across the city, lasting several days. People come from far and wide. The city is also known for its music, with festivals through the year.
The Maiden City Festival and other events celebrate the city’s history and culture. Check what is on before you go.
Getting there and getting around
The city’s railway station is in Waterside, across the river from the walled city. Trains run to Belfast in around two hours, on a line along the coast that has been described as one of the most beautiful railway journeys in the world.
City of Derry Airport is about seven miles east of the city. Belfast International Airport is about an hour and a quarter away by road. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between the city, the airports and the station, and to explore the coast and Donegal.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Derry~Londonderry, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.