The ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, with two cathedrals named after St Patrick, a planetarium and orchards that give the county its nickname.
Armagh is one of the oldest cities in Ireland, and its spiritual capital. According to tradition, St Patrick founded his most important church here in the fifth century, and Armagh is still the seat of the leaders of both the Church of Ireland and the Catholic Church in Ireland. Its two cathedrals, both named after St Patrick, face each other from hilltops across the city.
Armagh is a small, elegant city of Georgian buildings, with an observatory, a planetarium, an ancient royal site and a famous library. The county around it is known as the Orchard County for its apple orchards. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. The two St Patrick’s Cathedrals
Armagh has two cathedrals, both dedicated to St Patrick, standing on two hills that face each other across the city. The Church of Ireland cathedral stands on the hill where Patrick is said to have built his first stone church. The present building dates largely from the thirteenth century, restored in the nineteenth.
The Church of Ireland cathedral is the burial place of Brian Boru, the famous High King of Ireland, who was killed at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014. A plaque on the outside wall marks the spot. Inside, the cathedral has a collection of ancient carved stones.
The Catholic cathedral, on the opposite hill, was built between 1840 and 1904, with twin spires rising high above the city. Its interior is richly decorated, with Italian mosaics covering the walls and ceilings. A long flight of steps leads up to the entrance.
Both cathedrals are free to visit, and seeing them together tells the story of Christianity in Ireland. The walk between them takes about fifteen minutes. The views from both hills over the city are lovely.
2. Armagh Observatory and Planetarium
Armagh Observatory was founded in 1790 by Archbishop Richard Robinson, and it is one of the oldest scientific institutions in Ireland and Britain. Astronomers still work here today. Its historic telescopes and buildings stand in parkland on a hill.
The Armagh Planetarium, next to the observatory, opened in 1968, and its first director was the famous astronomer Sir Patrick Moore. Its dome shows films and shows about the stars, planets and space exploration. It is great for families.
The Astropark, in the observatory grounds, is a scale model of the universe, where you can walk from the sun past the planets to the edge of the solar system. There are also exhibits including a meteorite you can touch. It is a fun and interesting walk.
The planetarium has a shop and runs events through the year. Check the show times before you go. It is a short walk from the city centre.
3. Navan Fort
Navan Fort, about two miles west of Armagh, is one of the most important ancient sites in Ireland. Known in Irish as Emain Macha, it was the ancient royal capital of the kings of Ulster. It is steeped in legend.
According to the Irish legends, it was the home of the warriors of the Red Branch, including the great hero Cú Chulainn. Archaeologists found the remains of a huge timber building here, built around two thousand years ago and then deliberately burned and covered with a mound. Its purpose is still a mystery.
Today the site is a large grassy mound on a hill, with views across the countryside. The Navan Centre, nearby, tells the stories of the legends and the archaeology. In summer, costumed guides bring the Iron Age to life.
Navan Fort is a peaceful and atmospheric place. It is free to walk up to the mound. A car makes it easy to get there from the city.
4. The Mall and Georgian Armagh
The Mall, in the heart of Armagh, is a long, elegant park surrounded by Georgian terraces. It was once a racecourse, and today it is a lovely green space for walking and relaxing. Cricket is still played there in summer.
Armagh has some of the finest Georgian architecture in Ireland, much of it designed by the architect Francis Johnston, who was born in the city. The buildings around the Mall include the courthouse and the old gaol. The city centre streets are lined with handsome buildings.
The Armagh Robinson Library, founded in 1771, is one of the oldest public libraries in Ireland. It holds rare books and manuscripts, including a first edition of Gulliver’s Travels with notes by its author, Jonathan Swift. It is a fascinating place for book lovers.
The Armagh County Museum, on the Mall, is the oldest county museum in Ireland, and it tells the story of the county. It is free to visit. The Palace Demesne, the former grounds of the archbishop’s palace, is a lovely park.
5. The Orchard County
County Armagh is known as the Orchard County, because of its many apple orchards. The Armagh Bramley apple, a large cooking apple, has special protected status, like champagne. Apples have been grown here for centuries.
In May, the orchards are covered in pink and white blossom, and the county celebrates with an apple blossom festival. It is a beautiful time to visit. The countryside is lovely for a drive.
In autumn, the apples are harvested, and many local producers make cider, apple juice and other apple products. Some farms welcome visitors for tastings. Armagh cider has become popular.
A driver for the day makes it easy to explore the orchards and visit the cider makers without anyone having to drive after tastings. The countryside is peaceful and green.
6. Gosford, the Argory and the county
Gosford Forest Park, about seven miles south east of Armagh, is a large forest park around a castle. It has woodland walks, a walled garden and a camping site. The castle was one of the first examples of Norman Revival architecture in Ireland.
The Argory, a country house run by the National Trust, is about ten miles north east of Armagh, on the banks of the River Blackwater. It has been left much as it was in the early twentieth century, with its original furniture and even its own gas lighting plant. Ardress House, another National Trust house, is nearby.
The county has pretty villages and lakes, and Lough Neagh, the largest lake in Britain and Ireland, is to the north. Slieve Gullion, in the south of the county, is a mountain with a forest drive and ancient tombs.
A car makes it easy to explore the county. The roads are quiet and the countryside is lovely.
Getting there and getting around
Armagh has no railway station. The nearest is Portadown, about twenty minutes away by road, on the line between Belfast and Dublin. Newry, with trains to both cities, is about half an hour away.
Belfast International and George Best Belfast City airports are each about an hour away by road, and Dublin Airport is about an hour and a half. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Armagh, the stations and the airports, and to explore the county.
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