Walls, a Minster, Vikings and a street that looks like a film set: York packs two thousand years of history into a city small enough to walk around.
Few cities in the world pack as much history into as small a space as York. The Romans founded it as Eboracum in AD 71, and it became one of the most important places in Roman Britain; Constantine the Great was proclaimed emperor here. The Vikings made it their capital, Jorvik, and in the Middle Ages it was the second city of England, with a great minster, walls and a castle.
Today York is one of the most visited cities in Britain, and it is easy to see why. Its medieval walls, narrow streets, museums and cathedral are all within walking distance of each other, and there are good pubs and tea rooms on every corner. This guide covers twelve things to see and do, followed by where to eat, where to stay, a plan for a weekend and how to get there.
1. York Minster
York Minster is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in northern Europe, and one of the most beautiful buildings in the world. It was built over about two hundred and fifty years, between 1220 and 1472, on the site of earlier churches and the headquarters of the Roman fortress. Its size and grandeur are breathtaking.
The minster is famous for its medieval stained glass, which is among the finest in the world. The Great East Window, completed in the early fifteenth century, is one of the largest expanses of medieval stained glass in a single window anywhere, telling the story of the world from creation to the end of time. The Rose Window, in the south transept, celebrates the marriage that ended the Wars of the Roses.
You can climb the central tower, more than two hundred and seventy steps up, for the best view over York and the countryside. Beneath the minster, the Undercroft museum reveals the remains of the Roman fortress and the foundations of the Norman church. The Chapter House, with its carvings of faces and animals, is a delight.
There is a charge to visit the minster for sightseeing, but services, including Evensong, are free. Hearing the choir in this vast building is unforgettable. Allow at least two hours.
2. The city walls
York has the longest medieval town walls in England, and you can walk along most of them. The full circuit is about two miles, and walking it takes around two hours at a relaxed pace. The walk gives wonderful views over the city, the minster and the gardens.
The walls were first built by the Romans, rebuilt by the Vikings and Normans, and extended in the Middle Ages. Parts of the Roman wall still survive. The walls are free to walk, and they are open during daylight hours.
The walls are entered through four main gateways, known as bars: Micklegate Bar, Bootham Bar, Monk Bar and Walmgate Bar. Walmgate Bar is the only town gate in England that still has its barbican, an outer defence. The heads of traitors were once displayed on Micklegate Bar.
The stretch of wall between Bootham Bar and Monk Bar has the best views of the minster. In spring, the banks below the walls are covered in daffodils. The walk is mostly flat, but there are steps at the gateways.
3. The Shambles
The Shambles is one of the best preserved medieval streets in Europe, and one of the most famous streets in Britain. Its crooked timber framed buildings, some dating from the fourteenth century, lean so far over the narrow street that in places they almost touch. It is like stepping into a film set.
The street was once lined with butchers’ shops, and some buildings still have the wide windowsills where meat was displayed. The name comes from an old word for the benches or stalls used by butchers. Today the Shambles is full of shops, cafés and sweet shops.
The Shambles is said by some to have inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films, and there are several shops selling wizarding souvenirs. It is very popular, and it gets crowded during the day. Early morning or evening is the best time for photographs.
Halfway along the street is the shrine of St Margaret Clitherow, a Catholic martyr who lived in the street and was executed in 1586. The Shambles Market, just behind the street, has stalls selling food, crafts and more. The streets around the Shambles, known as snickelways, are full of hidden alleys.
4. JORVIK Viking Centre
In the late 1970s, archaeologists digging on Coppergate in the centre of York uncovered the remains of the Viking city of Jorvik. The waterlogged soil had preserved houses, workshops, clothing, shoes and even Viking toilets. It was one of the most important archaeological discoveries of its kind.
The JORVIK Viking Centre, on the site of the dig, takes you on a ride through a reconstruction of the Viking streets, complete with sounds and smells. You see people at work, children playing and animals, based on what the archaeologists found. It is a lively and memorable experience.
The centre also displays objects found in the excavations, including jewellery, tools and the remains of Viking people. Costumed staff tell the story of Viking life. It is great for children.
Every February, York hosts the JORVIK Viking Festival, one of the largest Viking festivals in Europe, with battle re-enactments, markets and events. Tickets for the centre are best booked in advance, especially in the holidays. Queues can be long.
5. The National Railway Museum
The National Railway Museum, near York station, is one of the largest railway museums in the world, and it is free to enter. It has a huge collection of locomotives, carriages and railway objects from the last two centuries. Rail enthusiasts can spend a whole day here.
Among its stars is Mallard, the steam locomotive that set the world speed record for steam in 1938, reaching a hundred and twenty six miles an hour. The record has never been broken. You can also see a Japanese bullet train and royal carriages used by Queen Victoria.
The Great Hall, a former engine shed, has a huge turntable at its centre, surrounded by locomotives. There are exhibits about the history of the railways and the people who worked on them. Children love the play areas and the chance to climb aboard some trains.
The museum is a short walk from York station. A small road train runs between the museum and the minster in season. Allow at least half a day.
6. Clifford’s Tower and York Castle Museum
Clifford’s Tower is the keep of York Castle, standing on a tall mound in the south of the city. It was first built by William the Conqueror, and the stone tower you see today dates from the thirteenth century. It is looked after by English Heritage.
The tower has a dark history. In 1190, the Jewish community of York took refuge in the wooden castle that stood here, fleeing a violent mob, and many died. A memorial at the foot of the mound remembers them.
After a recent restoration, a new walkway on top of the tower gives wonderful views over the city. Inside, displays tell the story of the tower. The climb up the steps of the mound is steep.
Next to Clifford’s Tower, York Castle Museum is housed in two former prisons. Its most famous exhibit is Kirkgate, a recreated Victorian street with shops and houses. The museum also has the cell where the highwayman Dick Turpin was held before his execution.
7. Museum Gardens and the Yorkshire Museum
Museum Gardens, in the centre of York beside the River Ouse, are beautiful botanical gardens with lawns, trees and flower beds. They are free to visit and a lovely place to relax. The gardens are home to squirrels and peacocks.
In the gardens stand the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey, once one of the richest abbeys in England. Its ruined arches are one of the most photographed sights in York. In summer, plays are sometimes performed in front of the ruins.
The Yorkshire Museum, in the gardens, tells the story of York and Yorkshire, from dinosaurs to the Middle Ages. Its treasures include the Middleham Jewel, a golden pendant, and important Roman objects. The galleries on Roman York are excellent.
The gardens also have part of the Roman fortress walls, including the Multangular Tower. They are a peaceful escape from the busy streets. There is a small observatory, one of the oldest working observatories in the county.
8. The medieval halls and houses
York has some remarkable medieval buildings. The Merchant Adventurers’ Hall, built in the 1350s, is one of the finest medieval guildhalls in Europe. Its great timber hall, where merchants met, is magnificent.
The Treasurer’s House, beside the minster, is a historic house looked after by the National Trust, with rooms from different periods. It is famous for a ghost story: in 1953, a workman in the cellar said he saw a troop of Roman soldiers marching through the wall. The cellar is on the line of an old Roman road.
Barley Hall, a medieval townhouse hidden down an alley, has been restored to show how a wealthy family lived in the fifteenth century. Fairfax House, a Georgian townhouse, has one of the finest collections of Georgian furniture in England. Each gives a different window into York’s past.
Many of York’s old pubs are in medieval buildings too. Ye Olde Starre Inne, with its sign stretching across Stonegate, is one of the oldest. Stonegate itself is one of the prettiest streets in the city.
9. York’s chocolate story
York has a sweet history. For more than two hundred years, it has been a centre of chocolate making. Some of the most famous chocolate bars and sweets in the world were invented here.
The Rowntree family, Quakers who built a huge factory in York, created the Kit Kat, the Aero and Fruit Pastilles. The Terry family made the Chocolate Orange. The city’s chocolate makers employed thousands of people.
York’s Chocolate Story, in the city centre, is an attraction that tells the history of chocolate and of York’s famous chocolate families. You can learn how chocolate is made and try making your own. There are plenty of samples.
The Quaker chocolate makers built parks, schools and housing for their workers. The Rowntree Park, beside the river, was given to the city by the family. The chocolate story is part of the character of York.
10. Ghost walks
York is said to be one of the most haunted cities in Europe, and it has hundreds of ghost stories. Its old streets, walls and buildings have seen two thousand years of history, including battles, plagues and executions. Tales of ghosts are everywhere.
Ghost walks run every evening, led by guides who tell spine chilling and often funny stories as they lead you through the dark streets. They are great fun for all ages. Each walk has its own style.
The walks usually last about an hour and a half, and many do not need to be booked in advance. They start from points around the city centre. They are a great way to see York by night.
Among the most famous stories are the Roman soldiers of the Treasurer’s House and the ghosts of the Shambles. Whether or not you believe in ghosts, the walks are a fascinating way to learn about the city’s history.
11. The river and Bettys
The River Ouse runs through the heart of York, and river cruises offer a relaxing way to see the city. Boats leave from King’s Staith and Lendal Bridge, with commentary about the city’s history. Evening cruises are lovely.
The riverside is lined with pubs, restaurants and walks. King’s Staith, beside the river, has pubs with outdoor seating, although the river often floods and the pubs are used to it. The Millennium Bridge and the walk to Rowntree Park are pleasant.
Bettys, a famous tea room that has been serving afternoon tea in York since 1937, is one of the most popular places in the city. Its elegant rooms, cakes and tea are a York tradition. There is often a queue, but it moves quickly.
York Racecourse, on the Knavesmire south of the city, is one of the finest racecourses in Britain. Its Ebor Festival in August is one of the biggest events in the racing calendar. Race days bring huge crowds to the city.
12. Castle Howard and the countryside
Castle Howard, about fifteen miles north east of York, is one of the grandest country houses in Britain. It was built in the eighteenth century for the Earl of Carlisle, and it is still the home of the Howard family. It has appeared in films and television dramas, most famously Brideshead Revisited.
The house is full of treasures, and its great dome and hall are spectacular. The grounds cover a thousand acres, with lakes, temples, fountains and woodland. It is a wonderful day out.
York is also a great base for exploring the North York Moors, with their heather covered hills and pretty villages, and the coast at Whitby and Scarborough. The Yorkshire Dales are to the west. Harrogate, with its elegant spa history, is about half an hour away.
A car or a driver for the day is the easiest way to explore the countryside around York. The North York Moors Railway, a heritage steam railway, runs through the moors to Whitby.
Where to eat and drink
York is famous for its tea rooms, and Bettys is the most famous, but there are many others serving cakes, scones and Yorkshire specialities. Try a Yorkshire curd tart, a traditional sweet pastry. York ham was once famous around the world.
The Shambles Market has a food court with stalls from around the world. Fossgate and Micklegate have independent restaurants and bars. York’s pubs are some of the best in the country, many in historic buildings.
Where to stay
For a first visit, stay inside the city walls or just outside them, where you can walk to all the main sights. There are hotels near the station, beside the river and close to the minster. York has many guest houses in the streets around Bootham and Clifton.
York is very popular, especially at weekends, during the races and in the weeks before Christmas, so book accommodation early.
A weekend in York
On the first day, visit York Minster in the morning, then walk the city walls from Bootham Bar to Monk Bar. After lunch, explore the Shambles and the snickelways, then visit the JORVIK Viking Centre. In the evening, join a ghost walk and have dinner in one of the old pubs.
On the second day, visit the National Railway Museum in the morning, then take afternoon tea at Bettys. In the afternoon, visit Clifford’s Tower and York Castle Museum, or take a river cruise. With a third day, head to Castle Howard, the North York Moors or the coast.
Festivals through the year
York hosts events all year round. The JORVIK Viking Festival fills the city with Vikings every February. The Ebor Festival in August is the highlight of the racing year. In the weeks before Christmas, the St Nicholas Fair Christmas market fills the streets with stalls and lights.
During big events, the city is extremely busy and trains and roads are packed. A car booked ahead, with a pickup point agreed outside the walls, is the easiest way to arrive and leave.
Getting there and getting around
York station is on the East Coast Main Line, just outside the city walls, with fast trains to London King’s Cross in under two hours, and to Edinburgh, Newcastle, Leeds, Manchester and Birmingham. It is a short walk from the station to the minster.
Leeds Bradford Airport is about forty minutes by road, and Manchester Airport around an hour and a half. The city centre is small, and many streets inside the walls are closed to traffic for much of the day, so park and ride sites on the edge of the city are the best option for drivers.
A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between York, the airports and the station with luggage, and to reach Castle Howard, the moors and the coast.
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