One of England’s smallest cities, with a glorious cathedral, a moated palace where swans ring a bell, and Cheddar Gorge nearby.
Wells is one of the smallest cities in England, with a population of only around eleven thousand people. It takes its name from the natural springs, or wells, that rise in the gardens of the Bishop’s Palace. It has been a cathedral city for more than eight hundred years.
Despite its size, Wells has one of the most beautiful cathedrals in the world, a moated palace and the oldest residential street in Europe. It sits at the foot of the Mendip Hills, close to Cheddar Gorge, Wookey Hole and Glastonbury. Film fans may recognise it as the setting of the comedy Hot Fuzz. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Wells Cathedral
Wells Cathedral is one of the most beautiful cathedrals in England. It was begun around 1175, and it was the first cathedral in England built entirely in the new Gothic style. Its honey coloured stone glows in the sunlight.
Its west front is one of the great sights of medieval Europe. It was once covered with around four hundred carved figures of saints, kings, angels and prophets, and around three hundred of them still survive. In the Middle Ages they were brightly painted, and the whole front would have been a dazzling sight.
Inside, the cathedral is famous for its scissor arches, huge curved arches shaped like an X, which were added in the 1330s to stop the central tower from sinking. The Wells Clock, made around 1390, is one of the oldest clocks in the world with its original face, and every quarter of an hour, knights on horseback joust above it. The worn stone steps up to the Chapter House, known as the sea of steps, are one of the most photographed staircases in the world.
The cathedral also has a chained library and beautiful stained glass. It asks for a donation for entry, and guided tours are available. Evensong, sung by the cathedral choir, is a lovely experience.
2. The Bishop’s Palace
The Bishop’s Palace, next to the cathedral, has been the home of the Bishops of Bath and Wells for more than eight hundred years. It is surrounded by walls and a moat, like a castle. It is one of the most beautiful places in Somerset.
The palace is famous for its swans, which have been trained for generations to ring a bell by the gatehouse when they want to be fed. The tradition goes back to the Victorian age, when a bishop’s daughter taught them. Watching the swans ring the bell is a delight.
Inside the walls are beautiful gardens, the ruins of a great medieval hall and the springs that gave the city its name. The water bubbles up into a pool, then flows out into the moat and through the streets. The gardens are lovely in every season.
The palace itself has rooms open to visitors, with paintings and furniture. There is a café. Allow a couple of hours.
3. Vicars’ Close
Vicars’ Close, near the cathedral, is often described as the oldest intact residential street in Europe. It was built in the fourteenth century to house the men who sang in the cathedral choir. Its two rows of stone houses face each other across a narrow cobbled street.
The houses still have their tall chimneys and small front gardens. A chapel stands at the end of the street. It is still lived in, many of the houses by members of the cathedral choir.
Walking along Vicars’ Close feels like stepping back into the Middle Ages. It is especially lovely in the evening light. Please remember that people live here, and keep your voices down.
The Vicars’ Close is linked to the cathedral by a covered bridge, known as the Chain Gate, so the choristers could walk to services without going outside. It is one of many charming details in the city. The Cathedral Green, in front of the west front, is a lovely place to sit.
4. Wookey Hole
Wookey Hole, about two miles north west of Wells, is a series of caves carved by the River Axe into the Mendip Hills. People have lived in and visited the caves for thousands of years. Guided tours take you through the chambers, with their dramatic rock formations and underground river.
The caves are famous for the legend of the Witch of Wookey, said to have been turned to stone by a monk. A stalagmite shaped like an old woman is said to be her. Cheddar cheese is matured in the caves, where the cool, damp air gives it a special flavour.
The Wookey Hole site also has a Victorian paper mill, where you can see paper being made by hand, and attractions for children, including a maze and play areas. It is a popular day out for families.
Allow at least half a day. Tickets are cheaper when booked online. Wookey Hole is easily reached by car from Wells.
5. Cheddar Gorge
Cheddar Gorge, about eight miles north west of Wells, is the largest gorge in England. Its limestone cliffs rise about a hundred and fifty metres above the road that winds through it. It is one of the most dramatic natural sights in the country.
The gorge has caves, including Gough’s Cave, where the skeleton of Cheddar Man was found. He lived about ten thousand years ago, and he is the oldest almost complete human skeleton found in Britain. Tours of the caves show their spectacular rock formations.
You can walk along the top of the gorge on a clifftop path, with wonderful views. It takes about an hour and a half. Look out for wild goats on the cliffs.
The village of Cheddar gave its name to Cheddar cheese, and you can visit a cheese maker to see traditional Cheddar being made. The gorge gets busy on summer weekends. A car or a driver for the day makes it easy to combine Cheddar with Wookey Hole and Wells.
6. Glastonbury and the Mendips
Glastonbury, about six miles south of Wells, is one of the most mystical places in England. Glastonbury Tor, a hill with a ruined church tower on top, rises above the flat Somerset Levels. Climbing the Tor is a short, steep walk with wonderful views.
Glastonbury Abbey, in the town, was one of the richest monasteries in England, and legend links it with King Arthur, whose grave the monks claimed to have found in the twelfth century. The ruins are beautiful and set in lovely grounds. The town itself is full of unusual shops selling crystals and books.
The Glastonbury Festival, one of the largest music festivals in the world, is held most summers at Pilton, a few miles from Wells. During the festival, the roads are extremely busy. A car booked well in advance is the easiest way to arrive.
The Mendip Hills, a protected landscape just north of Wells, are lovely for walking, with views across Somerset. Wells holds a market in the Market Place on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The Wells and Mendip Museum, beside the cathedral, tells the story of the area.
Getting there and getting around
Wells has no railway station. The nearest main line station is Castle Cary, about twenty five minutes away by road, with trains to London Paddington, and Bath and Bristol are each about forty five minutes away.
Bristol Airport is about twenty miles north, around thirty five minutes by road. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Wells, the stations and the airport, and to reach Cheddar, Wookey Hole and Glastonbury.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Wells, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.