The castle, the monument and the battlefields: in Stirling, the whole story of Scottish independence is laid out within a few miles.
Stirling has been called the brooch that clasps the Highlands and the Lowlands together, because it stands at the point where the two meet. For centuries, whoever held Stirling held Scotland, and some of the most important battles in Scottish history were fought within sight of its castle. It became a city in 2002.
Today Stirling is a small, historic city with a magnificent castle, a hilltop monument and an old town of cobbled streets. It is a great base for exploring the Trossachs, Loch Lomond and central Scotland. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Stirling Castle
Stirling Castle is one of the grandest castles in Scotland, standing on a volcanic rock above the city. It was the favourite home of many Scottish kings and queens, and it was where Mary, Queen of Scots was crowned as a baby in 1543. It is looked after by Historic Environment Scotland.
The Royal Palace, built for King James V in the sixteenth century, has been restored to look as it did when it was new, with brightly coloured walls, rich furniture and tapestries. Costumed characters bring the rooms to life. It is one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Britain.
The palace is famous for the Stirling Heads, carved oak medallions showing kings, queens and heroes, which once decorated the ceiling of the king’s chamber. Some of the originals are displayed in a gallery, and copies decorate the restored ceiling. The Great Hall, restored with its bright limewashed walls, is the largest medieval banqueting hall in Scotland.
The castle also has a chapel, kitchens and a museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. The views from the ramparts over the battlefields and the mountains are wonderful. Allow at least half a day, and book tickets in advance in summer.
2. The National Wallace Monument
The National Wallace Monument is a tall Victorian tower on the Abbey Craig, a hill just north east of the city. It was built in the 1860s to celebrate William Wallace, the hero of the Scottish wars of independence. It can be seen for miles around.
From the Abbey Craig, Wallace watched the English army gather before the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297, when he won a famous victory. His story was made famous around the world by the film Braveheart. The monument tells his story.
Inside, a spiral staircase of more than two hundred and forty steps leads up through exhibition rooms to the top. On display is a huge sword said to have belonged to Wallace. From the top, the views over Stirling, the castle and the Forth valley are breathtaking.
A shuttle bus runs from the car park to the monument, or you can walk up through the woods. The climb inside is narrow and steep. Allow a couple of hours.
3. The Battle of Bannockburn
The Battle of Bannockburn, fought in 1314 just south of Stirling, was one of the most important battles in Scottish history. The army of Robert the Bruce defeated a much larger English army led by King Edward II. The victory secured Scotland’s independence for centuries.
The Battle of Bannockburn visitor centre, run by the National Trust for Scotland, uses 3D technology to put you in the middle of the battle. You can take part in a battle game, directing the armies. It is an exciting and memorable experience.
Outside, a statue of Robert the Bruce on horseback stands near the rotunda, a memorial built on the site. The landscape around it is peaceful. It is hard to imagine the violence that took place here.
The visitor centre is especially popular with families. Tickets for the battle experience should be booked in advance. It is about ten minutes from the city centre.
4. The Old Town
Stirling’s Old Town runs up the hill from the city centre to the castle. Its steep cobbled streets are lined with old buildings, some dating back to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It is one of the best preserved old towns in Scotland.
The Church of the Holy Rude, near the castle, is one of the oldest buildings in Stirling. King James VI was crowned here as a baby in 1567. It is one of the few churches in Britain still in use that has hosted a coronation.
Argyll’s Lodging, a Renaissance townhouse near the castle, has been restored to show how a noble family lived in the seventeenth century. The Old Town Cemetery, beside the church, has views across the valley. Mar’s Wark, the ruin of a grand house, is nearby.
The Stirling Old Bridge, over the River Forth north of the city, was built in the fifteenth century near the site of the famous battle. The Old Town is best explored on foot, but it is steep. A car can drop you at the castle.
5. Doune Castle, the Kelpies and the Falkirk Wheel
Doune Castle, about fifteen minutes north west of Stirling, is a fourteenth century castle that has appeared in some of the most famous films and television series of recent decades. It was used in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, the first episode of Game of Thrones and Outlander. An audio guide is narrated by one of the Monty Python team.
The Kelpies, about twenty five minutes south east of Stirling near Falkirk, are two enormous steel sculptures of horses’ heads, thirty metres tall. They are among the largest equine sculptures in the world. They are especially dramatic when lit up at night.
The Falkirk Wheel, nearby, is the world’s only rotating boat lift. It lifts boats between two canals, turning like a giant wheel. You can take a boat trip on it.
Blair Drummond Safari Park, near Stirling, has lions, elephants and a boat trip to an island of chimpanzees. A car makes it easy to visit these places in one day.
6. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs
The Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park begins a short drive west of Stirling. It is a landscape of lochs, mountains and forests, often called the Highlands in miniature. It is one of the most beautiful areas in Scotland.
Loch Katrine, in the Trossachs, has a Victorian steamship, the Sir Walter Scott, which has carried passengers on the loch for more than a century. Scott’s poem The Lady of the Lake was set here, and it brought the first tourists to the area. You can also hire bikes and cycle along the shore.
Callander and Aberfoyle are pretty towns at the edge of the Trossachs, with walks and cafés. Loch Lomond, the largest loch in Britain by surface area, is about forty five minutes from Stirling. Ben Lomond and Ben A’an are popular climbs.
The roads in the Trossachs are narrow and winding. A driver for the day lets you enjoy the views without worrying about the driving.
Getting there and getting around
Stirling station is in the city centre, with trains to Edinburgh in around forty five minutes, to Glasgow in around half an hour, and to Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen and Inverness. The Caledonian Sleeper also stops at Stirling.
Edinburgh and Glasgow airports are each about forty minutes by road. The M9 and M80 link the city with Edinburgh and Glasgow. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Stirling and the airports, and to explore the Trossachs and Loch Lomond.
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