The smallest city in Britain is a village with a cathedral, at the far western tip of Wales, surrounded by the Pembrokeshire coast.
St Davids, on the far western tip of Wales in Pembrokeshire, is the smallest city in Britain, with fewer than two thousand people. It is really a village, but it has a cathedral, and its city status was confirmed in 1994. It is named after St David, the patron saint of Wales, who founded a monastery here in the sixth century.
St Davids is surrounded by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, the only national park in Britain that is mainly coastline. The cliffs, beaches and islands around it are some of the most beautiful in Europe, full of seabirds, seals and dolphins. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. St Davids Cathedral
St Davids Cathedral stands on the site of the monastery founded by St David in the sixth century. It was built in a hollow, a small valley below the village, so that it could not be seen by Viking raiders sailing along the coast. Visitors are often surprised to find it hidden below them as they walk down the steps.
The present building was begun in the twelfth century, and it has been a place of pilgrimage ever since. In the Middle Ages, the Pope declared that two pilgrimages to St Davids were worth one to Rome. The shrine of St David, restored in recent years, stands in the presbytery.
Inside, look out for the carved oak ceiling of the nave, and for the floor, which slopes noticeably uphill from the west door to the altar. The carved wooden seats in the choir include some with humorous scenes. The cathedral is built of purple stone that glows in the light.
The cathedral is free to visit, with donations welcome. It holds a festival of music every summer. Guided tours tell the story of the building and the saint.
2. The Bishop’s Palace
Beside the cathedral stand the dramatic ruins of the Bishop’s Palace, built mostly in the fourteenth century. It was built to impress, with a great hall, fine chambers and a beautiful arcaded parapet running along the top of the walls. It shows how rich and powerful the medieval bishops were.
The palace is looked after by Cadw, and you can explore the ruins, including the great hall and the vaulted undercrofts. The carved stone heads and decorations are fascinating. The views of the cathedral from the palace are wonderful.
In summer, open air theatre is performed in the palace grounds, a magical setting on a warm evening. The palace also has an exhibition about the bishops and their lives. Allow an hour or so.
The palace and cathedral together sit in the valley of the little River Alun, a peaceful and beautiful spot. The walk down from the village is steep but short.
3. Whitesands Bay
Whitesands Bay, about two miles north west of St Davids, is one of the finest beaches in Wales. It is a wide sweep of golden sand facing the Atlantic, with rolling waves. It is popular with families, surfers and swimmers.
The beach has lifeguards in summer, and it is one of the best places in Wales to learn to surf. There are surf schools and board hire. The water is clean, and the beach has a Blue Flag.
Above the beach rises Carn Llidi, a rocky hill with views across the coast and out to the islands. A short, steep climb takes you to the top. On a clear day, you can see across to Ireland.
The car park at Whitesands fills early on sunny summer days. A car dropping you off saves the search for a space. There is a café and a shop at the beach.
4. St Non’s Chapel
St Non’s Chapel, on the clifftop about half a mile south of St Davids, is where St David is said to have been born, around the year five hundred. His mother, St Non, is said to have given birth to him during a great storm. The ruins of a small medieval chapel stand in a field above the sea.
Nearby is St Non’s Well, a holy well that has been visited by pilgrims for centuries, who believed its water could heal. A small modern chapel stands beside it. The whole place has a peaceful, spiritual atmosphere.
The views from the clifftop over St Non’s Bay are wonderful. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs past the chapel. It is a lovely short walk from the city.
The site is free to visit and open at all times. It is especially beautiful early in the morning or at sunset. A retreat house stands nearby.
5. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path and the islands
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is a national trail that runs for about a hundred and eighty six miles around the coast of Pembrokeshire. It passes cliffs, coves, beaches and headlands, and it is one of the finest coastal walks in the world. The stretch around St Davids Head is especially beautiful.
Boat trips leave from St Justinian’s, near St Davids, to Ramsey Island, a nature reserve where grey seals breed on the beaches in autumn. The waters around the islands are home to porpoises and dolphins. Some boats take you through fast tidal currents for an exciting ride.
Skomer Island, reached by boat from Martin’s Haven, south of St Davids, is home to thousands of puffins in late spring and early summer. It is one of the best places in Britain to see them close up. Boats run only in the season and in good weather, and places are limited.
Coasteering, a sport that combines climbing, swimming and jumping along the coast, was developed in Pembrokeshire, and St Davids is a great place to try it with a guide. The Blue Lagoon at Abereiddi, a flooded slate quarry, is a popular spot. It is thrilling but should only be done with experienced guides.
6. Solva, Porthgain and the Pembrokeshire villages
Solva, about three miles east of St Davids, is a pretty village around a narrow harbour, with colourful cottages, galleries and pubs. At low tide the boats rest on the sand. A walk up to the headland gives lovely views.
Porthgain, a few miles north east, is a tiny harbour village that was once a busy port for slate and brick. Its old industrial buildings stand beside the harbour. It is known for its seafood and its historic pub.
Oriel y Parc, in St Davids, is a visitor centre and gallery run with the national museum, with exhibitions of art inspired by the landscape. It is free to visit. It has information about the national park.
Tenby, a colourful walled seaside town about forty five minutes away, has sandy beaches and a harbour. The Pembrokeshire villages are best explored by car, and a driver for the day saves navigating the narrow lanes.
Getting there and getting around
St Davids has no railway station. The nearest is Haverfordwest, about sixteen miles away, with trains to Swansea, Cardiff and beyond. Ferries sail from Fishguard, about sixteen miles north east, to Rosslare in Ireland.
Cardiff Airport is about two and a half hours away by road. The roads in Pembrokeshire are narrow and winding. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between St Davids, the station, the ferry port and the airport, and to explore the coast.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in St Davids, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.