One of Britain’s smallest cities, with one of its smallest ancient cathedrals, set in the peaceful Elwy valley of north Wales.
St Asaph, in Denbighshire, is one of the smallest cities in Britain, with a population of only a few thousand people. It was given city status in 2012, to mark the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. Its cathedral, the smallest ancient cathedral in Britain, has a history going back almost fifteen hundred years.
St Asaph sits in the gentle valley of the River Elwy, close to the north Wales coast, the Clwydian hills and the mountains of Eryri. It is a peaceful place, and a good base for exploring north Wales. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. St Asaph Cathedral
St Asaph Cathedral is the smallest ancient cathedral in Britain. A church was founded here in the sixth century by St Kentigern, and it was later named after his follower, St Asaph. The present building dates mostly from the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries.
The cathedral is closely linked with William Morgan, who translated the whole Bible into Welsh in 1588, while he was a parish priest in mid Wales. He later became Bishop of St Asaph. His translation was one of the most important events in the history of the Welsh language, helping it to survive.
Outside the cathedral stands the Translators’ Memorial, honouring Morgan and the others who translated the Bible into Welsh. Inside, a copy of the William Morgan Bible is displayed. The cathedral is peaceful and full of history.
The cathedral hosts the North Wales International Music Festival every September. It is free to visit. It is in the heart of the small city.
2. The River Elwy and the city
The River Elwy flows through St Asaph, and riverside paths make lovely gentle walks. The river meets the River Clwyd just north of the city. The valley is green and peaceful.
St Asaph’s High Street runs down the hill from the cathedral to the river, with shops, pubs and cafés. The old bridge over the Elwy is a pretty spot. The city has a relaxed, village feel.
The countryside around the city is lovely for walking and cycling. The Elwy valley is dotted with farms and small villages. It is one of the quieter parts of north Wales.
St Asaph is a good base for exploring, with easy access to the A55. It is convenient for both the coast and the mountains.
3. Bodelwyddan and the Marble Church
Bodelwyddan, a village just west of St Asaph, is home to Bodelwyddan Castle, a Victorian castle set in parkland, which is now a hotel. In the grounds are practice trenches dug by soldiers training for the First World War, which have survived for more than a century. They are a remarkable reminder of the war.
Nearby stands St Margaret’s Church, known as the Marble Church, a Victorian church built with many different types of marble inside. Its white limestone spire can be seen for miles. It is one of the most beautiful Victorian churches in Wales.
The churchyard contains the graves of Canadian soldiers who died at a nearby camp at the end of the First World War. It is a place of quiet remembrance. The church is often open to visitors.
Bodelwyddan is a short drive from St Asaph. The views across the valley to the coast are lovely. It combines well with a visit to Rhuddlan Castle.
4. Rhuddlan Castle
Rhuddlan Castle, about three miles north of St Asaph, was built by King Edward I in 1277, during his conquest of Wales. It was one of the first of his great castles, designed with a concentric plan, with walls inside walls. Its massive twin towered gatehouses still stand.
To supply the castle by sea, Edward had the River Clwyd straightened into a deep channel so that ships could sail up to it. It was a huge engineering project. In 1284, he issued the Statute of Rhuddlan here, setting out how Wales would be governed.
The castle is looked after by Cadw. You can walk around the walls and towers. The views from the castle over the river and the countryside are lovely.
Rhuddlan is a small town with pubs and shops. The castle is a short drive from St Asaph. Allow an hour or so.
5. The north Wales coast
The north Wales coast is about ten to fifteen minutes from St Asaph. Rhyl and Prestatyn have long sandy beaches, promenades and seaside attractions. They are popular with families in summer.
Prestatyn is the northern starting point of the Offa’s Dyke Path, a long distance walk of about a hundred and seventy seven miles along the border between Wales and England. It follows the line of an ancient earthwork built by an Anglo-Saxon king. You can walk a short section from the town.
Further west, Llandudno is an elegant Victorian seaside resort, between two headlands, the Great Orme and the Little Orme. It has a pier, a promenade and a tram that climbs to the top of the Great Orme. Conwy, with its castle and town walls, is nearby.
The coast is easy to reach from St Asaph along the A55. A car makes it easy to explore the resorts and castles.
6. The Clwydian Range, Holywell and Bodnant
The Clwydian Range, a line of heather covered hills just east of St Asaph, is a protected landscape with wonderful walks. Moel Famau, the highest point, is topped by the ruins of the Jubilee Tower. The views from the top stretch across north Wales and as far as Liverpool on a clear day.
St Winefride’s Well, at Holywell about twenty minutes east, has been a place of pilgrimage for more than thirteen hundred years. It is often called the Lourdes of Wales. Pilgrims still bathe in its waters.
Denbigh, about ten minutes south, has a ruined castle and a medieval town wall. Bodnant Garden, about twenty five minutes west, is one of the finest gardens in Britain, famous for its laburnum arch, which flowers in late spring. It is looked after by the National Trust.
The area is best explored by car. A driver for the day makes it easy to see the hills, the gardens and the castles.
Getting there and getting around
St Asaph is just off the A55, the main road along the north Wales coast. The nearest railway station is Rhyl, about ten minutes away, with trains to Chester, Holyhead and direct trains to London Euston.
Liverpool John Lennon and Manchester airports are each about an hour by road. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between St Asaph, the stations and the airports, and to explore north Wales.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in St Asaph, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.