A Roman city, a cathedral with one of the longest naves in England and a market that has run since the ninth century, twenty minutes from London.
St Albans is one of the oldest towns in Britain. Beside it lie the remains of Verulamium, one of the largest cities of Roman Britain. It takes its name from Alban, a Roman citizen who became the first recorded British Christian martyr, executed on the hill where the cathedral now stands.
Today St Albans is a handsome, prosperous city in Hertfordshire, just twenty minutes from central London by train. It has a great cathedral, Roman remains, an ancient market and some of the best pubs in the country. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. St Albans Cathedral
St Albans Cathedral stands on the hill where St Alban is believed to have been executed for his faith, perhaps in the third century. Pilgrims have come to his shrine ever since, and the cathedral claims to be the oldest site of continuous Christian worship in Britain. The present building was begun by the Normans in 1077.
The Norman builders used bricks and tiles from the ruins of Roman Verulamium, and you can still see them in the great central tower. The cathedral has one of the longest naves of any cathedral in England. Its mix of Norman, Gothic and Victorian work makes it fascinating to explore.
On the Norman pillars of the nave are medieval wall paintings, some of them hundreds of years old, showing the crucifixion and saints. The shrine of St Alban, rebuilt from hundreds of fragments, stands behind the high altar. It is one of the most important medieval shrines in England.
The cathedral is free to visit, with donations welcome, and there are guided tours and tower tours on some days. It holds concerts, services and events through the year. The cathedral grounds lead down to Verulamium Park.
2. Verulamium
Verulamium was one of the largest and most important towns of Roman Britain. It was burned by Queen Boudica during her revolt in AD 60 or 61, then rebuilt. At its height it had grand public buildings, temples, a theatre and fine houses.
The Verulamium Museum, on the site of the Roman city, tells the story of everyday life in Roman Britain. It has some of the finest Roman mosaics and wall paintings in the country, along with objects found in excavations. It is a great museum for families.
In Verulamium Park, a short walk from the museum, a building protects a Roman hypocaust, the underfloor heating system of a bath house, with a mosaic floor. Sections of the Roman city walls stand in the park. The lake in the park is lovely for a walk.
Across the road, the Roman Theatre of Verulamium is the only one of its kind visible in Britain, a theatre with a stage rather than an amphitheatre. It is on a private estate and there is a small charge. The park is a lovely place for a picnic.
3. The Clock Tower and the market
The Clock Tower, in the heart of the city, was built between 1403 and 1412. It is the only medieval town belfry in England. Its bell, known as Gabriel, has rung out over the city for more than six hundred years.
You can climb the tower on weekends and bank holidays in the summer months, up a narrow spiral staircase. The views from the top over the city and the cathedral are wonderful. There is a small charge.
St Albans has held a market since Saxon times, more than a thousand years ago, and its charter market still takes place every Wednesday and Saturday in St Peter’s Street and Market Place. It sells fruit, vegetables, flowers, clothes and much more. It is one of the largest street markets in the south east.
The streets around the market and the Clock Tower are full of old buildings, independent shops and cafés. St Albans Museum and Gallery, in the old Town Hall, tells the story of the city. It is free to visit.
4. The pubs of St Albans
St Albans is famous for its pubs, and it has an unusually large number of them for its size. Many are in historic buildings, some hundreds of years old. The city is also home to the headquarters of CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale.
Some of the city’s pubs claim to be among the oldest in England, with stories stretching back centuries. Many serve real ale from local breweries. A pub crawl through the old streets is a popular way to spend an evening.
The pubs around Fishpool Street and the cathedral, near Verulamium Park, are especially lovely, with gardens and old beams. Fishpool Street itself is one of the prettiest streets in the city. On summer evenings, the pub gardens are full.
St Albans also holds a beer festival, one of the largest in the region. The city has a good choice of restaurants too. After an evening out, a car booked ahead is the easiest way home.
5. The Warner Bros Studio Tour
The Warner Bros Studio Tour London, The Making of Harry Potter, is at Leavesden, near Watford, about twenty minutes from St Albans. It is where the Harry Potter films were made. It is one of the most popular attractions in Britain.
The tour takes you through the real sets, including the Great Hall, Diagon Alley, the Gryffindor common room and Dumbledore’s office. You can see the costumes, props and creatures used in the films, and learn how the special effects were created. You can even walk onto Platform Nine and Three Quarters and board the Hogwarts Express.
The tour is fascinating even for people who are not big fans. It shows the extraordinary skill of the craftspeople who made the films. Allow at least three or four hours.
Tickets must be booked in advance, and they sell out, especially in the school holidays. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to get there from St Albans or from London, and to avoid waiting for shuttle buses.
6. Hatfield House and the Hertfordshire countryside
Hatfield House, about six miles east of St Albans, is one of the great Jacobean houses of England. It was built in the early seventeenth century by Robert Cecil, the chief minister of King James I. It is still the home of his descendants.
In the grounds stands the Old Palace, where the young Elizabeth I spent much of her childhood. Legend says she was sitting under an oak tree in the park when she heard that she had become queen. The house is full of portraits, tapestries and treasures from her reign.
The de Havilland Aircraft Museum, a few miles south of St Albans, has the prototype of the Mosquito, a famous aircraft of the Second World War that was designed and built nearby. It is run by volunteers and full of fascinating stories. Children can climb into some of the cockpits.
Knebworth House, a romantic Gothic mansion famous for its rock concerts, is about half an hour north. The Hertfordshire countryside has pretty villages and walks. A car makes it easy to explore.
Getting there and getting around
St Albans City station has fast trains to London St Pancras in around twenty minutes, and direct trains to Gatwick and Luton airports. St Albans Abbey station, closer to Verulamium, has a branch line to Watford.
London Luton Airport is about ten miles north, around twenty minutes by road. Heathrow is around forty minutes away. The M1 and M25 pass close to the city. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between St Albans and the airports, and to reach the Studio Tour and Hatfield House.
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