One of England’s smallest cities, where a horn is blown in the market square every night, with a World Heritage abbey a short walk away.
Ripon is one of the smallest cities in England, a market town in North Yorkshire with a cathedral that has been a place of worship for more than thirteen hundred years. It has a friendly, relaxed atmosphere and some of the oldest traditions in the country.
It is also the gateway to one of the most beautiful places in England, the ruins of Fountains Abbey and the water garden of Studley Royal. The Yorkshire Dales and the market towns of Harrogate and Thirsk are close by. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Ripon Cathedral
Ripon Cathedral stands on the site of a church founded by St Wilfrid in 672. Beneath the cathedral is the crypt that Wilfrid built, one of the oldest built structures in England still in use. Visitors can go down into it, through a narrow passage.
The cathedral above was rebuilt over the centuries, and it mixes Norman, Early English and later Gothic styles. Its west front is a fine example of Early English architecture. Inside, the carved wooden choir stalls are among the finest in the country.
Lewis Carroll, the author of Alice in Wonderland, often visited Ripon, where his father was a canon of the cathedral. Some people believe carvings in the cathedral, including one of a rabbit disappearing down a hole, may have inspired parts of the story. Look for them in the choir.
The cathedral holds services, concerts and events. It is free to visit, with donations welcome. It is a short walk from the Market Square.
2. The Hornblower
Every evening at nine o’clock, the Ripon Hornblower sets the watch in the Market Square. Dressed in a tricorn hat and a long coat, the Hornblower blows a large horn at each corner of the obelisk in the square. The tradition is said to go back more than a thousand years.
In the Middle Ages, the Wakeman was responsible for keeping the town safe at night. The horn signalled that the watch had begun. If a house was robbed during the night, the Wakeman had to pay compensation.
The ceremony is free to watch, and visitors are welcome to talk to the Hornblower afterwards. It is one of the oldest unbroken traditions in the country. It is a charming reminder of the city’s long history.
The Market Square, with its tall obelisk, hosts a market every Thursday. The square is surrounded by old buildings, shops and pubs. The Town Hall carries the city’s motto about the Wakeman.
3. Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal
Fountains Abbey, about three miles south west of Ripon, is one of the largest and best preserved ruined monasteries in England. It was founded by Cistercian monks in 1132, and it grew into one of the richest abbeys in the country. After Henry VIII closed the monasteries, it fell into ruin.
The abbey’s great tower, church and monastic buildings still stand to a remarkable height. The vaulted cellarium, a long hall where the monks stored food, is extraordinary. Walking among the ruins is a moving experience.
Next to the abbey is the Studley Royal Water Garden, one of the finest Georgian water gardens in England. It was created in the eighteenth century, with canals, ponds, temples and statues. Together, the abbey and the garden are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The site also has Fountains Hall, an Elizabethan mansion, and a deer park with hundreds of deer. It is looked after by the National Trust. Allow at least half a day.
4. Ripon Racecourse and the canal
Ripon Racecourse, on the edge of the city, is known as Yorkshire’s Garden Racecourse, thanks to its beautiful flower beds and setting. Race meetings are held from spring to autumn. It is a relaxed and friendly place for a day at the races.
The racecourse is popular with families, and race days have a lively atmosphere. There are restaurants and bars on course. Big meetings draw large crowds.
The Ripon Canal, the most northerly part of the connected canal network in England, runs from the city to the River Ure. Its towpath is a pleasant walk. The canal basin in the city has boats and a café.
On race days, the roads around the course can be busy. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to get there and back.
5. The Ripon Museums
Ripon has three small museums about law and order, known together as the Ripon Museums. The Workhouse Museum is in a Victorian workhouse, where the poorest people were sent to live and work. It shows the harsh conditions they faced.
The Prison and Police Museum is in an old prison, and it tells the story of crime and punishment over the centuries. The Courthouse Museum, near the cathedral, is a Georgian courtroom. Together, they give a vivid picture of justice in the past.
The museums are well presented, with stories of real people. They are fascinating for all ages. A single ticket covers all three.
Opening times vary through the year, so check before you go. The museums are all within walking distance of the Market Square.
6. Brimham Rocks, Newby Hall and the Dales
Brimham Rocks, about ten miles south west of Ripon, is a collection of strange and dramatic rock formations on the moorland, shaped by wind and weather over millions of years. They have names such as the Dancing Bear and the Idol. Children love clambering over them.
Newby Hall, about four miles south east of Ripon, is a grand country house with beautiful gardens beside the River Ure. Its gardens are among the finest in the North. There is also an adventure garden for children.
Masham, a small market town about ten miles north west, is famous for its two breweries, Theakston and Black Sheep, both of which offer tours. The Yorkshire Dales, with their valleys, villages and waterfalls, are just beyond. Harrogate, with its spa history and elegant gardens, is about twenty minutes away.
The countryside around Ripon is best explored by car, and a driver for the day means everyone can enjoy the brewery tours. Thirsk, the home of the vet and author James Herriot, is also nearby.
Getting there and getting around
Ripon has no railway station. The nearest stations are Harrogate and Thirsk, each about twenty minutes away by road, with trains to Leeds, York and London.
Leeds Bradford Airport is about twenty five miles south, around forty minutes by road. The A1(M) runs just east of the city. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Ripon, the stations and the airport, and to reach Fountains Abbey and the Dales.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Ripon, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.