Where the Mayflower sailed from, Drake played bowls and the Royal Navy still has its home: Plymouth is Britain’s Ocean City.
Plymouth has one of the finest natural harbours in the world, and the sea has shaped its whole history. Sir Francis Drake sailed from here to fight the Spanish Armada in 1588, the Pilgrims set sail on the Mayflower for America in 1620, and Captain Cook and Charles Darwin began great voyages from its waters.
Plymouth was badly damaged by bombing in the Second World War, and much of its centre was rebuilt in the years afterwards. But its historic waterfront, the Hoe and the Barbican still tell the story of a great seafaring city. It is home to the largest naval base in Western Europe. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Plymouth Hoe
Plymouth Hoe is a wide grassy clifftop above the sea, with sweeping views over Plymouth Sound, one of the finest natural harbours in the world. It is the most famous place in the city. Legend says Sir Francis Drake was playing bowls here in 1588 when news came that the Spanish Armada had been sighted, and he insisted on finishing his game.
The red and white striped lighthouse on the Hoe is Smeaton’s Tower. It originally stood on the Eddystone Rocks, far out to sea beyond the mouth of the Sound, and it was moved to the Hoe stone by stone in the 1880s when the rock beneath it began to crumble. You can climb to the top for wonderful views.
Below the Hoe is Tinside Lido, a beautiful art deco open air swimming pool filled with sea water, opened in the 1930s. It is open in summer, and swimming there with a view of the Sound is a joy. Nearby, you can swim in the sea from the rocks and platforms along the shore.
The Royal Citadel, a huge seventeenth century fortress built by King Charles II, stands at the eastern end of the Hoe. It is still used by the army, but guided tours are available at certain times. The Hoe is a lovely place for a walk at any time of day.
2. The Barbican and the Mayflower Steps
The Barbican is Plymouth’s old harbour district, with cobbled streets, historic buildings and a busy waterfront. It survived the wartime bombing better than much of the city. It is full of galleries, cafés, pubs and restaurants.
The Mayflower Steps mark the spot from which the Pilgrims are said to have set sail for America in 1620. A memorial stands at the top of the steps. Plaques around it commemorate other famous voyages that began here.
The Mayflower Museum tells the story of the voyage and the people who made it. The Elizabethan House, a sixteenth century merchant’s home, shows how people lived in Drake’s time. New Street, a narrow cobbled lane, is one of the oldest streets in the city.
The Plymouth Gin Distillery, in a building that was once a monastery, has been making gin since 1793, and it is the oldest working gin distillery in England. Tours and tastings are available. Boat trips leave from the Barbican to explore the Sound and the River Tamar.
3. The National Marine Aquarium
The National Marine Aquarium, beside Sutton Harbour, is the largest aquarium in the UK. It is home to thousands of animals, from sharks and rays to seahorses and octopuses. It is a charity devoted to ocean conservation.
The aquarium takes you on a journey through the oceans, from the waters of Plymouth Sound to coral reefs and the open ocean. Its largest tank holds sharks and shoals of fish, and there is a huge viewing window. It is spectacular.
The aquarium explains the threats facing the oceans and the work being done to protect them. There are talks and feeding displays through the day. Children love it.
Allow a couple of hours. Tickets are cheaper when booked online, and they usually allow a return visit within a year. It is a short walk from the Barbican.
4. The Box and Royal William Yard
The Box, which opened in 2020, is Plymouth’s museum, gallery and archive, in the city centre. It tells the story of Plymouth and its people, and it has collections of art, natural history and archaeology. Its entrance hall is dramatic, with ships’ figureheads hanging from the ceiling.
The Box has galleries about the city’s history, including the Mayflower voyage and its impact on Native American people. It holds exhibitions of art and photography. It is free to visit, with charges for some exhibitions.
Royal William Yard, on the western edge of the city, is a magnificent group of stone buildings built in the 1820s and 1830s to supply the Royal Navy with food, drink and supplies. It is one of the finest groups of military buildings in Britain. Today it has been restored and is home to restaurants, bars, shops and flats.
Royal William Yard is lovely for a meal by the water. From there, you can walk along the coast, or take a ferry across to Mount Edgcumbe in Cornwall. In summer, a water taxi links the yard with the Barbican.
5. Mount Edgcumbe and the Cornish shore
Mount Edgcumbe is a country park and house on the Cornish side of Plymouth Sound, reached by the Cremyll Ferry, a short boat ride from Plymouth. The park covers hundreds of acres of woodland, gardens and coastline. It is one of the most beautiful places near the city.
The house, a Tudor mansion rebuilt after bombing in the war, is open to visitors in season. The formal gardens include English, French and Italian gardens. The views across the Sound to Plymouth are wonderful.
The coast path runs along the edge of the park to the pretty villages of Kingsand and Cawsand, with narrow streets, pubs and a small beach. You can also reach them by boat from Plymouth in summer. It is a lovely day out.
Across the River Tamar, the Tamar Bridge leads into Cornwall. Cotehele, a Tudor house run by the National Trust, is beside the river. A car makes it easy to explore the Cornish side of the Sound.
6. Dartmoor and Saltram
Dartmoor National Park begins just north of Plymouth, and it is within half an hour of the city. It is a landscape of wild moorland, granite tors and wooded valleys, with ponies roaming freely. It is one of the great wild places of England.
Burrator Reservoir, on the edge of the moor, is a lovely place for a walk. Villages such as Yelverton and Princetown, home to the famous prison, are nearby. The moor has walks for all abilities.
Saltram, on the eastern edge of Plymouth, is a grand Georgian house looked after by the National Trust. It has rooms designed by Robert Adam, paintings by Joshua Reynolds, who was born nearby, and a large park beside the river. It appeared in a film of Sense and Sensibility.
The moor is best explored by car, and a driver for the day saves navigating the narrow lanes. Weather on the moor changes quickly, so bring warm, waterproof clothes.
Where to eat and drink
Plymouth is a great place for seafood, with fish landed at the city’s fish market. The Barbican and Royal William Yard have seafood restaurants by the water. Plymouth Gin is the local drink.
Cornish pasties are sold everywhere, as Cornwall is just across the river. The city centre and the Barbican have a wide choice of restaurants, pubs and cafés.
Getting there and getting around
Plymouth station has direct trains to London Paddington in around three hours, and to Exeter, Bristol and Cornwall. The A38 links the city with Exeter and the M5.
Exeter Airport is about an hour away by road, and Cornwall Airport Newquay about an hour and a quarter. Ferries sail from Plymouth to France and Spain. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Plymouth, the airports and the ferry port, and to explore Dartmoor and Cornwall.
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