A great Norman cathedral where a Tudor queen is buried, a country park on the river and a steam railway: Peterborough is an easy trip from London and the North.
Peterborough grew up around a great abbey founded in the seventh century on the edge of the Fens, and its cathedral is still the heart of the city. In the twentieth century it was chosen as a new town, and it grew quickly, with new neighbourhoods, parks and a large shopping centre.
Today it is a busy, diverse city on the East Coast Main Line, less than an hour from London, and it makes a good base for exploring the Fens, Rutland Water and the stone town of Stamford. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Peterborough Cathedral
Peterborough Cathedral is one of the finest Norman buildings in England. It was begun in 1118 on the site of an Anglo-Saxon abbey, and it became a cathedral after Henry VIII closed the monasteries. Its west front, with three enormous arches, is unlike that of any other cathedral in the world.
Inside, look up at the painted wooden ceiling of the nave, made in the thirteenth century. It is one of very few medieval wooden ceilings of its kind to survive anywhere in Europe. Its paintings of saints, kings and strange creatures are fascinating.
Katherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII, was buried in the cathedral in 1536. Visitors still leave pomegranates, her personal symbol, on her tomb. Mary, Queen of Scots, was also buried here after her execution, until her son, King James I, moved her body to Westminster Abbey.
Look out too for the Hedda Stone, an Anglo-Saxon carving that survives from the earlier abbey. Tower tours take you up for views across the Fens. The cathedral is free to visit, with donations welcome.
2. Ferry Meadows and Nene Park
Ferry Meadows is a large country park in Nene Park, on the western edge of the city. It covers hundreds of acres of lakes, woodland and meadows beside the River Nene. It is one of the most popular green spaces in the region.
The park has walking and cycling trails, and you can hire bikes, boats and paddleboards. There are play areas, a café and a visitor centre. On sunny weekends it is full of families.
The lakes are home to wildfowl, and there is a nature reserve with bird hides. A miniature railway runs through part of the park in season. It is a lovely place for a picnic.
Nene Park stretches along the river into the city centre, so you can walk or cycle along the riverside from the city to Ferry Meadows. The Nene Valley Railway has a station in the park. It is easy to spend a whole day here.
3. The Nene Valley Railway
The Nene Valley Railway is a heritage steam railway running along the river between Peterborough and Wansford, a distance of about seven and a half miles. It passes through Ferry Meadows and the countryside of the Nene valley. A ride on a steam train is a lovely day out.
The railway is known as the home of a real engine called Thomas, which was named by the Reverend W. Awdry, the author of the Thomas the Tank Engine books. Thomas events are held through the year and are very popular with young children. The railway also has engines from across Europe.
The line has appeared in many films and television programmes, including James Bond films, because its continental engines and stations can stand in for other countries. The station at Wansford has a shop, a café and a museum.
Trains run on selected days through much of the year, with special events at Christmas and in the school holidays. Check the timetable before you go. It combines well with a visit to Ferry Meadows.
4. Flag Fen
Flag Fen, on the eastern edge of Peterborough, is one of the most important Bronze Age sites in Europe. About three thousand years ago, people built a long wooden causeway across the wet fenland here, along with a timber platform. The waterlogged ground preserved the wood for thousands of years.
Visitors can see the preserved timbers of the causeway, as well as objects found on the site, including what is thought to be one of the oldest wheels found in England. The site has reconstructed Bronze Age and Iron Age roundhouses. It gives a vivid picture of life in the Fens long ago.
Archaeologists believe the causeway was a sacred place, as many objects, including swords and jewellery, were deliberately placed in the water. The site is still being studied. Its story is fascinating.
Flag Fen is open at certain times of year, so check before you go. It is a peaceful place, with walks through the fenland landscape. It is best reached by car.
5. Burghley House and Stamford
Burghley House, about fifteen minutes north west of Peterborough, is one of the grandest Elizabethan houses in England. It was built between 1555 and 1587 for William Cecil, Lord Burghley, the chief adviser to Queen Elizabeth I. It is still the home of his descendants.
The house is full of treasures, including paintings, furniture, tapestries and ceramics. Its painted rooms, known as the Heaven Room and the Hell Staircase, are spectacular. The park was landscaped by Capability Brown.
Burghley is famous for the Burghley Horse Trials, held every September, one of the most important horse riding competitions in the world. It draws huge crowds. The gardens include a sculpture garden and a garden of surprises with fountains and water jokes.
Stamford, next to Burghley, is often described as one of the finest stone towns in England, with streets of Georgian and medieval buildings and several old churches. It has appeared in many period dramas. It is a lovely place for lunch and a stroll.
6. Rutland Water and the city centre
Rutland Water, about half an hour west of Peterborough, is one of the largest man made lakes in England. It is surrounded by a cycle and walking path of about twenty five miles. You can hire bikes, go sailing, paddleboarding or fishing.
The lake is an important nature reserve, and it is famous for its ospreys, which returned to breed in England here after an absence of more than a century. You can watch them from hides in summer. Normanton Church, half submerged on the edge of the lake, is a local landmark.
Back in Peterborough, Cathedral Square, in front of the cathedral, has the Guildhall, a seventeenth century building standing on columns. Peterborough Museum, in a Georgian house that was once a hospital, tells the story of the city. It has a restored Victorian operating theatre.
Queensgate, the city’s large shopping centre, is next to the station. The city centre has a mix of shops, restaurants and bars. A car makes it easy to reach Rutland Water and the countryside around the city.
Getting there and getting around
Peterborough station is on the East Coast Main Line, with fast trains to London King’s Cross in under an hour, and to Leeds, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh. There are also trains to Cambridge, Ely, Birmingham and the coast.
Stansted Airport is about an hour and a quarter by road, and East Midlands Airport is a similar distance. The A1(M) runs past the city. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Peterborough and the airports, and to reach Burghley, Stamford and Rutland Water.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Peterborough, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.