A cathedral that was once the tallest building in the world, a castle holding Magna Carta and a street so steep it is called Steep Hill.
Lincoln has been an important place for two thousand years. The Romans built a fortress and then a city here, called Lindum Colonia, on a hill above the River Witham. After the Norman Conquest, William the Conqueror built a castle on the hill, and a cathedral rose beside it that became one of the wonders of medieval Europe.
The city is divided into two parts: the historic uphill area around the castle and cathedral, and the busier downhill area with its shops, the university and the waterfront of Brayford Pool. The climb between them is steep, but it is one of the most charming walks in England. This guide covers six things to see and do, and how to get there.
1. Lincoln Cathedral
Lincoln Cathedral is one of the finest Gothic buildings in Europe. It was begun in 1072, and after an earthquake damaged the building in 1185 it was rebuilt in the new Gothic style. The art critic John Ruskin said it was worth any two other cathedrals in Britain.
For well over two hundred years, from around 1311 until its central spire collapsed in 1548, Lincoln Cathedral was the tallest building in the world, taller even than the Great Pyramid of Giza. Even without its spires, it still dominates the skyline for miles around. On a clear day it can be seen from far across the flat Lincolnshire countryside.
Inside, look for the Lincoln Imp, a small, grinning stone figure carved high on a pillar in the Angel Choir. Legend says he was a mischievous creature turned to stone by an angel. He has become the symbol of the city, and spotting him is a rite of passage for visitors.
The cathedral has two great round windows, known as the Dean’s Eye and the Bishop’s Eye, a many sided chapter house and a library designed by Sir Christopher Wren. It has appeared in films including The Da Vinci Code. Roof and tower tours give wonderful views, and there is a charge to visit outside services.
2. Lincoln Castle and Magna Carta
Lincoln Castle was built by William the Conqueror in 1068, on the site of the Roman fortress. Its walls enclose a large green, and you can walk right around the top of them on the Medieval Wall Walk, with views over the cathedral, the city and the countryside. It is one of the best castle walks in England.
The castle holds one of only four surviving copies of the original Magna Carta of 1215, the charter that limited the power of the king and became a symbol of liberty around the world. It is displayed in a special vault, alongside the Charter of the Forest of 1217. Seeing it is a moving experience.
Inside the castle walls is a Victorian prison, which you can explore. It tells the stories of the prisoners who were held here, and its chapel has pews designed so that prisoners could not see each other. It is grim and fascinating.
The castle hosts events through the year, from historical re-enactments to open air cinema. Allow at least half a day. Tickets cover the wall walk, the Magna Carta vault and the prison.
3. Steep Hill
Steep Hill is exactly what its name promises: a cobbled street that climbs steeply from the lower city up to the cathedral and castle. It is lined with independent shops, tea rooms, bookshops and galleries. It was once voted the best street in Britain.
Along the way are some of the oldest houses in England. The Jew’s House, built in the twelfth century, is one of the oldest occupied houses in the country, and the Norman House is nearby. They were built by members of Lincoln’s medieval Jewish community.
The climb is hard work, especially near the top, where handrails help. There are plenty of places to stop and rest, with cafés and shops on both sides. The views back down the hill are lovely.
Walking up Steep Hill is a highlight of any visit, but if the climb is too much, a car can drop you at the top, by the cathedral. There are also buses. Many people walk up and then gently stroll back down.
4. The Bailgate and Roman Lincoln
The Bailgate is the historic quarter between the castle and the cathedral, on the hilltop. It has handsome old buildings, independent shops, pubs and restaurants. It is a lovely place to wander.
Roman remains are everywhere once you look. Along Bailgate itself, markers set into the road show the positions of the columns of a Roman colonnade. Newport Arch, at the northern end of the quarter, is a Roman gateway, and it is the oldest Roman arch in Britain still used by traffic.
The Collection, a museum in the lower city, has a large collection of archaeology from Lincolnshire, including Roman objects found in the city. Next door, the Usher Gallery has fine art. Entry to the museum is free.
Brayford Pool, in the lower city, is an old Roman harbour that is now a waterfront of restaurants, bars and the university. Boat trips run from here in summer. It is lively in the evenings.
5. The International Bomber Command Centre
Lincolnshire is known as Bomber County, because so many bomber squadrons flew from its airfields during the Second World War. The International Bomber Command Centre, on a hill just south of Lincoln, is a memorial to the men and women of Bomber Command. It opened in 2018.
At its heart is a tall steel spire, as tall as the wingspan of a Lancaster bomber, surrounded by walls bearing the names of more than fifty seven thousand people who lost their lives serving in or supporting Bomber Command. It is a powerful and moving place. From the hill you can see the cathedral, the landmark that guided returning crews home.
The exhibition tells the stories of the people of Bomber Command, and also of those affected by the bombing. It uses personal accounts and interactive displays. It is balanced and thoughtful.
The centre has peace gardens and a café with views of the cathedral. Allow a couple of hours. It is best reached by car, about ten minutes from the city centre.
6. Aviation heritage and the Lincolnshire countryside
Lincolnshire has a proud aviation history, and several places tell its story. At East Kirkby, about forty minutes from Lincoln, the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre has a Lancaster bomber that runs its engines and taxis along the runway on special days. It is a thrilling sight and sound.
The Red Arrows, the Royal Air Force’s famous aerobatic team, are based in Lincolnshire, and you can sometimes see them practising in the skies over the county. The RAF has a long presence in the area. Air shows are held at some bases in some years.
Doddington Hall, about five miles west of Lincoln, is an Elizabethan mansion with beautiful gardens and a farm shop. It is still a family home. The Lincolnshire Wolds, a protected area of rolling hills, are about half an hour north east.
The Lincolnshire coast, with seaside resorts such as Skegness and wild beaches and nature reserves, is about an hour away. A car or a driver by the hour makes it easy to explore the county, which is large and rural.
Getting there and getting around
Lincoln Central station is in the lower city, close to the shops and Brayford Pool, with direct trains to London King’s Cross in around two hours, and services to Nottingham, Sheffield and Newark. From the station, it is a steep walk or a short drive up to the cathedral.
East Midlands Airport is about an hour away by road, and Humberside Airport about forty minutes. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Lincoln and the airports, and to explore the uphill quarter, the aviation sites and the countryside.
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