The only medieval English cathedral with three spires, the birthplace of Samuel Johnson and a quiet, handsome city in Staffordshire.
Lichfield is a small, elegant city in Staffordshire, with a cathedral that has been a place of worship for more than thirteen hundred years. Its streets of Georgian houses, its pools and its parks give it a peaceful, dignified air.
It has produced some remarkable people, including Samuel Johnson, the writer of the famous dictionary, and Erasmus Darwin, the grandfather of Charles Darwin. This guide covers six things to see and do, and how to get there.
1. Lichfield Cathedral
Lichfield Cathedral is the only medieval cathedral in England with three spires, known affectionately as the Ladies of the Vale. It stands on the site of a church founded by St Chad in the seventh century. The present building was begun in the twelfth century.
The cathedral suffered badly in the Civil War, when it was besieged three times and its central spire was destroyed. It was restored in the seventeenth century and again by the Victorians. Its west front is covered in carved statues.
Among its treasures are the St Chad Gospels, a beautiful illuminated manuscript from the eighth century, and the Lichfield Angel, a carved stone angel from the same period, discovered under the floor in 2003. The Lady Chapel has sixteenth century stained glass from a Belgian abbey. The cathedral is free to visit.
The cathedral holds concerts and events through the year, and its choir sings Evensong. The Cathedral Close, around the cathedral, has lovely old houses. Tower tours are sometimes available.
2. Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum
Samuel Johnson, one of the most famous writers in English history, was born in this house in Lichfield in 1709. His father was a bookseller, and the family lived above the shop. Johnson went on to write the famous Dictionary of the English Language, published in 1755.
The house is now a museum that tells the story of Johnson’s life and work. The rooms show how the family lived, and there are displays about the dictionary and his other writings. It is free to visit.
Johnson’s wit and wisdom are still quoted today, including his famous remark that when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life. His friend James Boswell wrote a famous biography of him. Statues of both men stand in the Market Square outside.
The museum is small but fascinating. It holds events and talks through the year. The Market Square is a lovely place to sit and watch the city go by.
3. Erasmus Darwin House
Erasmus Darwin was one of the great thinkers of the eighteenth century. He was a doctor, an inventor, a poet and a scientist, and a member of the Lunar Society, a group of scientists and industrialists who met in the Midlands. He was the grandfather of Charles Darwin.
His home in Lichfield, close to the cathedral, is now a museum. It tells the story of his life and ideas, some of which foreshadowed his grandson’s theory of evolution. There are displays of his inventions.
The house has a lovely herb garden, planted with herbs that Darwin would have used in his medical work. It is a peaceful place. The museum is small and interesting.
Erasmus Darwin House is close to the cathedral and the Market Square. Opening times vary, so check before you go. It combines well with a visit to the Samuel Johnson museum.
4. Beacon Park and the pools
Beacon Park, on the western edge of the city centre, is a large park with gardens, lawns and a lake. It is a lovely place for a walk or a picnic. There are play areas and sports facilities.
In the park stands a statue of Captain Edward Smith, the captain of the Titanic, who went down with his ship in 1912. The statue has an interesting history. It is a reminder of one of the most famous disasters in history.
Stowe Pool and Minster Pool, two lakes close to the cathedral, give the best views of the three spires, reflected in the water. A walk around Stowe Pool takes about half an hour. It is especially beautiful at sunset.
Museum Gardens, beside Minster Pool, has flower beds and statues. The whole area is peaceful and green. It is one of the most attractive parts of the city.
5. The National Memorial Arboretum
The National Memorial Arboretum, about six miles north east of Lichfield, is the UK’s year round centre of remembrance. It covers around a hundred and fifty acres of woodland and gardens, with more than four hundred memorials to the armed forces, civilian organisations and people who have died in service. It is a place of great peace and reflection.
The Armed Forces Memorial, at the heart of the site, bears the names of members of the armed forces who have died on duty since the Second World War. Its design allows the sun to shine through a gap onto a wreath at eleven o’clock on the eleventh of November. It is deeply moving.
The memorials include ones to regiments, ships, police officers and many others. Each has its own story. Walking among them is a powerful experience.
There is a visitor centre, a café and a chapel, where a short service is held each day. Entry is free, with a charge for parking. Allow at least half a day.
6. Shugborough, Cannock Chase and Drayton Manor
The countryside around Lichfield has plenty to explore. Shugborough Estate, about twelve miles north west, is a grand country house and park, with farms, gardens and monuments, looked after by the National Trust. Its park has unusual monuments, including one with a mysterious inscription that has never been solved.
Cannock Chase, a protected area of heathland and forest just north west of Lichfield, is lovely for walking and cycling. Its forest trails and open heath are home to deer. There are war cemeteries on the Chase, including a German military cemetery.
Drayton Manor, about eight miles south east of Lichfield, is a theme park with rides for all ages and a Thomas the Tank Engine area that is very popular with young children. It gets busy in the holidays. Tickets are cheaper online.
Lichfield also has the Garrick theatre, named after the actor David Garrick, who grew up in the city, and a summer festival of music and the arts. A car makes it easy to explore the countryside around the city.
Getting there and getting around
Lichfield has two stations. Lichfield City, in the centre, has trains to Birmingham in around half an hour. Lichfield Trent Valley, on the West Coast Main Line, has trains to London Euston in around an hour and a quarter.
Birmingham Airport is about twenty miles south, around half an hour by road. The M6 Toll and the A38 pass close to the city. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Lichfield and the airport, and to reach the Arboretum and the countryside.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Lichfield, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.