Victorian arcades, a museum of arms and armour and one of the biggest markets in Europe: Leeds is the North’s shopping and nightlife capital.
Leeds grew from a small market town into one of the great industrial cities of the North in the nineteenth century, making its fortune from wool, cloth and engineering. The wealth of that age built its grand town hall, its covered markets and its ornate shopping arcades, many of which still stand today.
Today Leeds is the largest city in Yorkshire, a centre of finance, law and business, and home to two big universities, which give it a young and lively atmosphere. It is known for its shopping, nightlife and food, and for being the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales. This guide covers ten things to see and do, followed by where to eat, where to stay, a plan for a weekend and how to get there.
1. The Royal Armouries
The Royal Armouries is the national museum of arms and armour, and one of the most impressive museums in the North. It opened in 1996 in a purpose built building beside the river at Leeds Dock. Its collection began at the Tower of London, where some of it is still displayed.
The museum has thousands of objects, from ancient weapons to modern ones, arranged across galleries on war, tournaments, self defence, hunting and the arms and armour of Asia. Among the highlights are suits of armour made for Henry VIII and a full suit of armour for an elephant, the only one of its kind in the world. The Hall of Steel, a tall tower whose walls are covered in thousands of pieces of arms and armour arranged in patterns, is breathtaking.
The museum brings its collection to life with live demonstrations of combat and horsemanship, and in some seasons with jousting tournaments in its outdoor tiltyard. Staff in costume explain how weapons were used and how armour was made. Children love it.
Entry to the main collections is free. Allow at least half a day. Leeds Dock, around the museum, has cafés and restaurants by the water, and a water taxi runs along the river from the station.
2. Kirkgate Market
Kirkgate Market is one of the largest covered markets in Europe, and one of the great sights of Leeds. Its grand Edwardian market hall, built in 1904, has an ornate facade and a glass roof supported by decorative iron. Inside, hundreds of stalls sell food, clothes and household goods.
The market has a special place in British retail history. In 1884, Michael Marks, a Jewish refugee from what is now Belarus, set up a stall in the market selling goods for a penny. He later went into business with Thomas Spencer, and together they founded Marks and Spencer. A replica of the original penny bazaar stall can be found in the market today.
The market’s fish, meat and fruit and vegetable stalls are a great place to buy fresh food. Its food hall has a growing range of street food stalls from around the world. It is lively and full of character.
Kirkgate Market is at the eastern end of the city centre, close to the bus station. It is busiest on Saturdays. Allow an hour or two to wander and eat.
3. The Victoria Quarter and the arcades
Leeds has some of the finest Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades in Britain. The Victoria Quarter, in the heart of the city centre, is the most spectacular. Its arcades, designed by the famous theatre architect Frank Matcham around 1900, have mosaic floors, marble columns and ornate painted ceilings.
Queen Victoria Street, between the arcades, is covered by a huge stained glass roof, one of the largest stained glass works in Britain. The arcades are home to designer shops, including the first Harvey Nichols store outside London. It is the most elegant shopping in the North.
Other arcades nearby, such as the Thornton’s Arcade and the Grand Arcade, have independent shops and cafés. Thornton’s Arcade has a clock with figures from Ivanhoe that strike the hours. The arcades are lovely to walk through even if you are not shopping.
The Corn Exchange, a short walk away, is a magnificent domed Victorian building designed by Cuthbert Brodrick, who also designed the town hall. It is now home to independent shops and restaurants. Trinity Leeds and Victoria Gate, two modern shopping centres, add high street and designer names.
4. Leeds Town Hall and the museums
Leeds Town Hall, opened by Queen Victoria in 1858, is one of the grandest civic buildings in Britain. Designed by Cuthbert Brodrick, it has a tall clock tower, columns and stone lions guarding its steps. It was built to show the confidence and wealth of the Victorian city.
Nearby, Leeds Art Gallery has a fine collection of British art from the Victorian age to the present, and it is free to enter. The Henry Moore Institute, next door, is a centre for the study of sculpture, named after the sculptor who studied in Leeds. The gallery’s Tiled Hall café, with its glazed tiles and vaulted ceiling, is one of the most beautiful cafés in the North.
Leeds City Museum, in a grand building on Millennium Square, tells the story of the city and has collections of natural history, world cultures and archaeology. Entry is free. Children enjoy its galleries of animals and ancient objects.
The Thackray Museum of Medicine, a short journey from the centre, tells the story of medicine through the ages, with recreated Victorian streets and interactive displays. Leeds Industrial Museum, at Armley Mills, was once one of the largest woollen mills in the world. Both are fascinating.
5. Roundhay Park
Roundhay Park, in the north of the city, is one of the largest city parks in Europe. It covers around seven hundred acres of parkland, lakes, woodland and gardens. It was once a medieval hunting park.
The park has two lakes, Waterloo Lake and the Upper Lake, with walks around them. There are formal gardens, including the Canal Gardens, and woodland trails. On summer weekends, families come to picnic, play games and relax.
Tropical World, in the park, is one of the largest collections of tropical plants outside Kew, with glasshouses full of rainforest plants, butterflies, meerkats and reptiles. It is popular with families, especially on a rainy day. There is a small entry charge.
Roundhay Park has hosted some of the biggest outdoor concerts in Britain, with stars such as Michael Jackson, the Rolling Stones and Ed Sheeran playing to huge crowds. It is a lovely place for a walk at any time of year. It is about three miles from the city centre.
6. Harewood House
Harewood House, about seven miles north of Leeds, is one of the great country houses of England. It was built in the eighteenth century for the Lascelles family, who still live there. It was designed by John Carr and Robert Adam, with furniture by Thomas Chippendale, who was born nearby.
The house is full of treasures, including one of the finest collections of Chippendale furniture in the world, paintings by great artists and beautiful ceilings and plasterwork. The state rooms are grand and elegant. The house has appeared in films and television dramas.
The gardens and park around the house were landscaped by Capability Brown, with a lake, woodland and views across the valley. There are formal terraces, a walled garden and a Himalayan garden. The bird garden is home to rare and endangered birds.
Harewood is a lovely day out for all ages. It hosts events through the year, including food festivals and exhibitions. A car is the easiest way to get there.
7. Kirkstall Abbey
Kirkstall Abbey, about three miles west of the city centre, is one of the best preserved medieval abbeys in Britain. It was founded by Cistercian monks in 1152, on the banks of the River Aire. After Henry VIII closed the monasteries, it fell into ruin.
Its tall stone walls, arches and tower still stand, and you can walk through the church, the cloister and the monks’ buildings. The ruins are dramatic and beautiful. The visitor centre tells the story of the monks who lived here.
The Abbey House Museum, across the road, was once the gatehouse of the abbey. It has recreated Victorian streets, with shops, houses and a pub, and displays about childhood. It is fun for families.
The abbey grounds are a pleasant park beside the river, and the abbey hosts events, including markets and outdoor theatre in summer. Check the entry arrangements before you go. It is easy to reach by bus or car from the centre.
8. Temple Newsam
Temple Newsam, on the eastern edge of Leeds, is a grand Tudor and Jacobean house set in fifteen hundred acres of parkland. It was the birthplace of Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen of Scots. Today it is owned by the city.
The house has more than forty rooms open to visitors, with collections of furniture, paintings, silver and ceramics. It is one of the finest historic houses in the North. The rooms show how the house changed over the centuries.
The park around the house was landscaped by Capability Brown, and it has woodland, lakes and gardens. Home Farm, in the park, is one of the largest rare breeds farms in Europe, with pigs, cattle, sheep and goats. Children love it.
Temple Newsam is a lovely day out, and the park is free to visit. There are cafés and play areas. It is about five miles from the city centre.
9. Headingley and sport in Leeds
Leeds is a great sporting city. Headingley, in the north west of the city, is home to Yorkshire County Cricket Club and to the Leeds Rhinos rugby league team, whose grounds sit side by side. Headingley has hosted some of the most famous Test matches in cricket history.
Watching a Test match at Headingley is a highlight of the English summer, with a lively and passionate crowd. Tickets for big matches sell quickly. The atmosphere on a sunny day is wonderful.
Leeds United, one of the most famous football clubs in England, plays at Elland Road, south west of the city centre. The club has a huge and loyal following, and match days are lively. Stadium tours are available.
Headingley itself is a lively area, popular with students, with pubs, bars and restaurants. The Otley Run, a pub crawl along the road from Headingley towards the city centre, is famous. On match days, a car booked ahead is the easiest way to get to and from the grounds.
10. The Yorkshire Dales and beyond
Leeds is the gateway to some of the most beautiful countryside in England. The Yorkshire Dales National Park, with its limestone scenery, waterfalls and villages, is less than an hour away. It is one of the most loved landscapes in Britain.
Places such as Malham, with its dramatic limestone cove and pavement, and Grassington, a pretty village in Wharfedale, are popular day trips. Bolton Abbey, a ruined priory beside the River Wharfe, has stepping stones and woodland walks. The scenery is breathtaking.
Closer to the city, the spa towns of Harrogate and Ilkley are each about half an hour away. Harrogate is famous for its elegant gardens, its tea rooms and its Turkish baths. York, with its minster, walls and medieval streets, is about half an hour by train.
The Leeds and Liverpool Canal begins in the city centre, at Granary Wharf, and its towpath runs out into the countryside. A car or a driver by the hour makes it easy to explore the Dales, where public transport is limited.
Where to eat and drink
Leeds has one of the best food scenes in the North. Kirkgate Market has a food hall with stalls from around the world, and Trinity Kitchen, in the Trinity Leeds shopping centre, has street food vendors that change regularly. The Corn Exchange and the arcades have independent cafés and restaurants.
Call Lane, in the city centre, is the heart of Leeds nightlife, lined with bars and clubs. The area around the Calls and Brewery Wharf, by the river, has restaurants and bars with waterside terraces. The city has a thriving craft beer scene, with many independent breweries and taprooms.
For a special occasion, Leeds has a growing number of acclaimed restaurants, and it is worth booking ahead at weekends. Traditional Yorkshire food, including Sunday roasts with Yorkshire puddings, is served in pubs across the city.
Where to stay
For a first visit, stay in the city centre, close to the station, the shops and the nightlife. The area around Park Square and the Calls has stylish hotels and apartments. Leeds Dock, by the Royal Armouries, is quieter and has water views.
Headingley and the northern suburbs have smaller hotels and guest houses, and they are handy for the cricket and rugby. For a country escape, there are hotels in the countryside around Harewood and Wetherby.
A weekend in Leeds
On the first day, start with a morning at the Royal Armouries, then walk along the river to the city centre. Have lunch at Kirkgate Market, then spend the afternoon browsing the Victoria Quarter and the arcades. In the evening, have dinner in the city centre and drinks on Call Lane.
On the second day, visit Kirkstall Abbey in the morning, then head to Harewood House for the afternoon. Alternatively, take the train to York for the day, or head out to the Yorkshire Dales. If you are there in summer, try to catch a match at Headingley.
Festivals and big events
Leeds Festival, held at Bramham Park north of the city each August bank holiday weekend, is one of the biggest music festivals in Britain. The city also hosts the Leeds West Indian Carnival, one of the oldest Caribbean carnivals in Europe, and festivals of food, film and light.
During big events and on match days, roads and trains are very busy. A car booked ahead, with a pickup point agreed away from the crowds, is the easiest way to get home.
Getting there and getting around
Leeds station is one of the busiest in the North, with fast trains to London King’s Cross in around two and a quarter hours, and direct services to Manchester, York, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Birmingham and many more. The station is in the heart of the city centre.
Leeds Bradford Airport is about eight miles north west of the city, around half an hour by road, and there is no railway link, so most people arrive by road. Manchester Airport is about an hour and a quarter away. The M1, M62 and A1(M) all pass close to the city.
The city centre is compact and walkable. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Leeds, the airports and the stations, and to visit Harewood, Kirkstall and the Dales.
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