The capital of the Highlands sits where the River Ness meets the sea, with Loch Ness, Culloden and dolphin-spotting all close by.
Inverness is the capital of the Scottish Highlands and the most northerly city in Britain. It stands where the River Ness flows into the Moray Firth, at the northern end of the Great Glen. It became a city in 2000.
Inverness is small, friendly and full of character, and it is the gateway to some of the most famous places in Scotland, from Loch Ness to Culloden and the Isle of Skye. It is also the start and end point of the North Coast 500, one of the most famous road trips in the world. This guide covers six things to see and do. For a longer trip, see our seven days in Scotland.
1. Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle
Loch Ness is the most famous loch in Scotland, stretching for about twenty three miles south west from near Inverness along the Great Glen. It is very deep, reaching more than two hundred metres, and it holds more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales put together. Its dark, peaty water hides many secrets.
The loch is famous around the world for the legend of the Loch Ness Monster, known as Nessie. Sightings have been reported since the 1930s, and people still come hoping to catch a glimpse. Whether or not you believe, the story adds to the magic.
Urquhart Castle, on the western shore of the loch, is one of the most famous castles in Scotland. Its ruins stand on a rocky headland above the water, with wonderful views up and down the loch. It is looked after by Historic Environment Scotland, and it has a visitor centre.
Boat trips on the loch leave from several places, including near Inverness and Drumnadrochit, and some stop at Urquhart Castle. The Caledonian Canal, built by Thomas Telford, links the loch with Inverness and the sea. A car or a driver for the day makes it easy to explore the whole loch.
2. Culloden Battlefield
Culloden, about five miles east of Inverness, was the site of the last pitched battle fought on British soil. On 16 April 1746, the Jacobite army of Bonnie Prince Charlie was defeated by the government army in less than an hour. It ended the Jacobite cause and changed the Highlands forever.
The visitor centre, run by the National Trust for Scotland, tells the story of the battle and its causes from both sides. A powerful immersive film puts you in the middle of the fighting. The displays are moving and thoughtful.
You can walk across the battlefield, which has been restored to how it looked at the time of the battle. Flags mark the positions of the two armies. Stones mark the graves of the clans who fell.
After the battle, the government set out to crush the Highland way of life, banning the wearing of tartan and breaking the power of the clans. Culloden is a place of great sadness and reflection. It has also become well known through the Outlander books and television series.
3. The Ness Islands and the city centre
The Ness Islands are a group of small wooded islands in the River Ness, a short walk from the city centre. They are linked to the riverbanks by Victorian footbridges. Walking around them is one of the most peaceful things to do in Inverness.
The path along the river from the city centre to the islands passes the cathedral and grand Victorian houses. The walk takes about half an hour each way. It is lovely in every season, especially in autumn.
Inverness Castle, a red sandstone castle on a hill above the river, is being transformed into a major visitor attraction about the Highlands. The views from the castle hill are wonderful. Check what is open before you go.
The city centre has a Victorian Market, a covered arcade of shops and cafés. Leakey’s Bookshop, in an old church, is one of the largest secondhand bookshops in Scotland, with a wood burning stove. Inverness Cathedral, beside the river, is a fine Victorian building.
4. Chanonry Point and the Black Isle
Chanonry Point, on the Black Isle about half an hour north east of Inverness, is one of the best places in Britain to see bottlenose dolphins from the shore. The Moray Firth is home to a population of these dolphins, and they often come close to the point to feed. Seeing them leap from the water is unforgettable.
The best time to see the dolphins is on a rising tide, when they chase fish into the narrow channel. A lighthouse stands at the point. Bring a warm jacket, as it can be windy.
The Black Isle, despite its name, is not an island but a peninsula. Its villages, including Fortrose, Rosemarkie and Cromarty, are pretty and peaceful. Cromarty has handsome old houses and boat trips to see dolphins and seals.
Dolphin watching boat trips also leave from Inverness. The parking at Chanonry Point is limited, and it gets busy in summer, so a car dropping you off saves the search.
5. Clava Cairns and Cawdor Castle
Clava Cairns, about six miles east of Inverness, are a group of Bronze Age burial cairns and standing stones, around four thousand years old. The stone circles and cairns stand in a quiet grove of trees. It is an atmospheric and mysterious place.
The cairns were built by people who lived in the area thousands of years ago, and some are aligned with the setting sun at midwinter. The site is free to visit. It is said to have inspired the stone circle in the Outlander stories.
Cawdor Castle, about fifteen miles east of Inverness, is a beautiful castle with a drawbridge, a tower and lovely gardens. Shakespeare linked the name of Cawdor with Macbeth. It is still lived in by the Cawdor family.
Fort George, on the Moray Firth, is a huge eighteenth century fortress built after Culloden, and it is still used by the army. It is one of the finest artillery fortifications in Europe. A car makes it easy to visit these places in one day.
6. The Highlands beyond
Inverness is the gateway to the Highlands, and some of the most beautiful places in Scotland are within reach. Glen Affric, about an hour west, is often called the most beautiful glen in Scotland, with ancient pine forests and lochs. The Cairngorms National Park, with Aviemore at its heart, is about forty minutes south.
The North Coast 500, a road trip of about five hundred miles around the far north of Scotland, starts and ends in Inverness. It passes mountains, beaches, castles and villages. It is one of the most famous road trips in the world.
The Isle of Skye, with its dramatic mountains and coastline, is about two and a half hours west. Speyside, the heart of Scotch whisky country, is about an hour east, with many distilleries offering tours. Eilean Donan Castle, one of the most photographed castles in Scotland, is on the way to Skye.
Driving in the Highlands can involve single track roads with passing places. A driver for the day lets you enjoy the scenery and the whisky without worrying about the roads.
Getting there and getting around
Inverness station has trains to Edinburgh and Glasgow in around three and a half hours, and to Aberdeen and the far north. The Caledonian Sleeper runs overnight from London Euston, and there is a direct daytime train from London King’s Cross.
Inverness Airport is about ten miles east of the city, with flights across Britain and to Europe, and it has its own railway station nearby. The A9, A96 and A82 link the city with the south, Aberdeen and the west. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Inverness, the airport and the station, and to explore Loch Ness and the Highlands.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Inverness, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.