A cathedral with cloisters that film fans will recognise, a restored Victorian dock and a rugby ground with a famous shed.
Gloucester was founded by the Romans, and it has been an important place ever since, standing on the River Severn at the gateway to Wales. In the Middle Ages it was one of the great cities of England, and William the Conqueror ordered the Domesday Book to be made while holding court here.
Today Gloucester is a city of contrasts, with a magnificent cathedral, a lively regenerated dock area and one of the most passionate rugby clubs in the country. It sits between the Cotswolds and the Forest of Dean, making it a great base for exploring. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Gloucester Cathedral
Gloucester Cathedral is one of the most beautiful buildings in England. It began as an abbey founded in the seventh century, and the present building was begun by the Normans in 1089. It became a cathedral after Henry VIII closed the monasteries.
Its cloisters are its most famous feature. They have the earliest surviving fan vaulting in England, a delicate web of stone ribs that spreads across the ceiling. The cloisters have appeared in several of the Harry Potter films and in many other films and television series.
The Great East Window, built in the fourteenth century, is one of the largest medieval stained glass windows in England, about the size of a tennis court. It is thought to commemorate those who fought at the Battle of Crécy. The glowing glass fills the choir with colour.
The cathedral holds the tomb of King Edward II, who was murdered at nearby Berkeley Castle in 1327. His tomb became a place of pilgrimage, and the money it brought helped pay for the rebuilding of the cathedral. Tower tours take you up for views over the city. Entry is free, with donations welcome.
2. Gloucester Docks
Gloucester Docks is Britain’s most inland port, linked to the River Severn and the sea by the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal, which opened in 1827. At its height, the docks were busy with ships carrying grain, timber and other goods. Tall Victorian brick warehouses were built around the basins.
Today the docks have been beautifully restored. The warehouses are home to museums, shops, restaurants, bars and apartments. It is a lively and attractive place to spend a few hours.
The National Waterways Museum, in one of the old warehouses, tells the story of the docks and the canals that served them. Boat trips run along the canal in summer. Historic ships are often moored in the basins.
Next to the docks, Gloucester Quays is a large outlet shopping centre. The docks host events through the year, including festivals of tall ships in some years. A walk from the cathedral to the docks takes about ten minutes.
3. The Tailor of Gloucester and the old city
Beatrix Potter wrote The Tailor of Gloucester after hearing a local story about a tailor who left an unfinished waistcoat in his shop, only to find it finished by mysterious helpers. She sketched a house near the cathedral as the tailor’s shop in her book. It was one of her own favourite stories.
The House of the Tailor of Gloucester, in College Court near the cathedral, is now a small shop and museum dedicated to Beatrix Potter and her stories. Children love seeing the setting of the tale. It is a charming place.
Gloucester’s old city, around the four main streets that meet at the Cross, has many historic buildings. The New Inn, a medieval galleried inn, is one of the finest of its kind in England. Blackfriars, a Dominican friary, is one of the most complete surviving friaries in the country.
Llanthony Secunda Priory, a ruined medieval priory near the docks, is being restored. The city walls and gates have mostly gone, but traces remain. Exploring the old streets on foot reveals layers of history.
4. Kingsholm and Gloucester Rugby
Gloucester is one of the great rugby cities of England, and its club, Gloucester Rugby, is one of the oldest and best supported in the country. The team plays at Kingsholm, a ground close to the city centre. The atmosphere on match days is famous.
The most famous part of the ground is the Shed, a covered terrace where the most passionate supporters stand and sing. It is known across the rugby world. Watching a match from there is an unforgettable experience.
Rugby is deeply rooted in the life of the city and the surrounding area. The club has produced many international players. Match days bring the whole city together.
Tickets for big games sell quickly, so book ahead. The ground is a short walk from the station and the city centre. Pubs around the ground are busy before and after games.
5. The Cotswolds, the Forest of Dean and Cooper’s Hill
Gloucester sits between two of the most beautiful areas of England. To the east rise the Cotswolds, with rolling hills and honey coloured stone villages. Painswick, known as the Queen of the Cotswolds, has a Rococo garden and a churchyard of yew trees.
To the west lies the Forest of Dean, an ancient woodland between the Severn and the Wye. It has walks, cycle trails and attractions such as Puzzlewood, a magical wood that has appeared in films, and Clearwell Caves, old iron mines. Symonds Yat has spectacular views over the River Wye.
Every spring, at Cooper’s Hill near Gloucester, people from around the world take part in the famous cheese rolling race. A round cheese is sent tumbling down a very steep hill, and competitors chase after it, often falling head over heels. It is a strange and exciting spectacle.
Slimbridge Wetland Centre, south of Gloucester on the Severn estuary, was founded by the naturalist Sir Peter Scott, and it is home to thousands of wild birds, especially in winter. A driver by the hour makes it easy to explore the Cotswolds, the Forest and the Severn in a single day.
Getting there and getting around
Gloucester station is close to the city centre, with trains to Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff and Cheltenham, and some direct trains to London Paddington. Cheltenham, with its famous racecourse, is only about ten minutes away.
Bristol and Birmingham airports are each about an hour away by road. The M5 runs just east of the city. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Gloucester, the airports and the racecourse at Cheltenham, and to explore the Cotswolds and the Forest of Dean.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Gloucester, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.