A cathedral city with medieval tunnels under its streets, a lively quayside and Dartmoor and the Jurassic Coast on either side.
Exeter is the capital of Devon and one of the oldest cities in England. The Romans founded it as the westernmost fortress of their empire in Britain, and much of the Roman city wall still stands. In the Middle Ages it grew rich from the wool trade, and its great cathedral was built.
Today it is a lively university city with a relaxed feel, and it sits between two of the most beautiful landscapes in England: Dartmoor to the west and the Jurassic Coast to the east. This guide covers six things to see and do, and how to get there.
1. Exeter Cathedral
Exeter Cathedral is one of the most beautiful Gothic cathedrals in England. Its two great Norman towers survive from an earlier building, and the rest was rebuilt in the Decorated Gothic style in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. It stands in the middle of the Cathedral Green, a lovely open space in the heart of the city.
The cathedral’s most famous feature is its ceiling. It has the longest unbroken medieval Gothic vault in the world, stretching the whole length of the building like an avenue of stone palm trees. The carved and painted roof bosses where the ribs meet are among the finest in England.
The west front is covered with rows of carved stone figures of kings, apostles and prophets. Inside, look out for the minstrels’ gallery, with carved angels playing musical instruments, and the astronomical clock. A small hole in the door below the clock is said to have been cut for the bishop’s cat, which kept the mice away.
Roof tours take you up above the vault and onto the roof for views over the city. There is a charge to visit, except for services. The Cathedral Green outside is a lovely place to sit and relax, with cafés nearby.
2. The Underground Passages
Beneath Exeter’s streets lies a network of medieval tunnels, built in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries to carry clean water into the city in lead pipes. They are the only passages of their kind open to the public in Britain. Exploring them is one of the most unusual things to do in the city.
The tunnels were built so that the pipes could be mended without digging up the streets. They are narrow and low in places. On a guided tour, you walk, and sometimes stoop, through the passages, hearing stories about their history.
An exhibition at the entrance explains how the passages were built and used, with interactive displays. The guides are full of stories, including tales of the tunnels being used as shelters during the Second World War. It is fascinating for all ages.
The tours are not suitable for anyone who dislikes tight spaces. Tours run at set times and are limited in size, so it is worth booking ahead, especially in the holidays. The entrance is in the city centre, close to the High Street.
3. RAMM, the Royal Albert Memorial Museum
The Royal Albert Memorial Museum, known as RAMM, is Exeter’s main museum, in a grand Victorian building near the High Street. It has collections from Devon and around the world, from natural history and archaeology to art and costumes. It once won a major national award as museum of the year.
The galleries include displays on the history of Exeter and Devon, from prehistoric times through the Roman city to the present day. The world cultures galleries have objects from Africa, the Americas, Asia and the Pacific. There is a large natural history collection, including a much loved giraffe.
The museum has changing exhibitions and a lively programme of events and family activities. Entry is free. There is a café.
Nearby, Rougemont Gardens and Northernhay Gardens surround the remains of the Norman castle and a stretch of the Roman city wall. Northernhay is said to be the oldest public open space in England. They are lovely places for a walk.
4. Exeter Quayside
Exeter Quayside, on the River Exe just below the city centre, was once a busy port. Its old warehouses and Custom House are now home to cafés, antiques shops, craft studios and restaurants. It is a relaxed and pretty area.
The Exeter Ship Canal, one of the oldest artificial waterways in England, was first built in the sixteenth century to bring ships up to the city. Its towpath is a lovely walking and cycling route. It leads south to waterside pubs and on to the Exe estuary.
You can hire bikes, canoes and kayaks at the quayside and follow the canal for several miles. The Exe Estuary Trail continues along both sides of the estuary to Exmouth and Dawlish. The estuary is rich in birdlife, especially in winter.
A small ferry crosses the river at the quayside, pulled across by hand. The Custom House has a visitor centre. The quayside hosts events and markets through the year.
5. The Roman walls and old streets
Exeter’s Roman city wall, built around two thousand years ago and rebuilt in the Middle Ages, survives around much of the old city. You can walk along a trail that follows its route, with information boards along the way. It is one of the most complete Roman town walls in England.
Within the walls are some lovely old streets. Parliament Street, near the High Street, is one of the narrowest streets in the world. Gandy Street, a narrow cobbled street of independent shops, is said by some to have inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books, as J.K. Rowling studied at the university.
Tuckers Hall, the medieval hall of the city’s weavers and fullers, is a rare survival with a fine timber roof. St Nicholas Priory, a Norman priory later turned into a Tudor house, is open to visitors. The Guildhall, on the High Street, is said to be one of the oldest municipal buildings in England still in use.
Exeter is also a sporting city, home to the Exeter Chiefs rugby team, one of the most successful in the country. Match days at Sandy Park are lively. The city has a good mix of shops, from high street names to independents.
6. Dartmoor and the Jurassic Coast
Exeter sits between two of the most beautiful landscapes in England, and both are within half an hour. To the west lies Dartmoor, a national park of wild moorland, granite tors, wooded valleys and pretty villages. Wild ponies roam freely across the moor.
Haytor, one of the best known tors, has views across the moor and down to the sea. Villages such as Widecombe in the Moor and Lustleigh are lovely. There are walks for all abilities.
To the east lies the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the rocks record millions of years of the Earth’s history. It begins at Exmouth and runs east past Budleigh Salterton, Sidmouth and Beer. The red cliffs and pebble beaches are beautiful.
Topsham, a pretty old port on the Exe estuary just south of the city, has historic houses and waterside pubs. Powderham Castle, the home of the Earls of Devon, is nearby. A driver by the hour makes it easy to explore the moor and the coast without worrying about narrow lanes.
Getting there and getting around
Exeter St Davids station has direct trains to London Paddington in around two and a quarter hours, and to Bristol, Birmingham and the rest of the South West. Exeter Central, closer to the city centre, has trains to London Waterloo and to the coast.
Exeter Airport is about five miles east of the city. The M5 ends at Exeter, linking it with Bristol and Birmingham, and the A30 and A38 continue west into Cornwall and the rest of Devon. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Exeter, the airport and the stations, and to explore Dartmoor and the coast.
Ride with ZeroLanes. From your door, the station or the airport to anywhere in Exeter, at a price fixed before you confirm. Travelling between cities? Get a fixed price for the journey, or keep a car and driver for the day with hourly hire.