Every August Edinburgh becomes the biggest arts festival on earth. Thousands of shows, from stand up in a cupboard to opera in a concert hall, spread across hundreds of venues. It is thrilling, crowded and unlike anywhere else.
The festivals began in 1947, when the Edinburgh International Festival was founded after the Second World War to bring people together through the arts. In the same year, a handful of theatre groups turned up uninvited and performed anyway, and the Fringe was born. Since then, it has grown into a celebration that takes over the whole city for a month. Here is how to make the most of it.
1. Know which festival is which
Edinburgh in August is not one festival, but several running at the same time. The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is the open access free for all, where anyone can put on a show, from famous comedians to students performing for the first time. It has thousands of shows every day, in theatres, pubs, churches, tents and even cars.
The Edinburgh International Festival is the curated programme of world class classical music, opera, theatre and dance, in the city’s big concert halls and theatres. Its performers are among the finest in the world. Tickets are more expensive, and they sell quickly.
The Edinburgh International Book Festival has authors, thinkers and public figures in conversation, and it is one of the largest book festivals in the world. The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo fills the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle every evening with pipes and drums, military bands, dancers and fireworks. It is one of the most famous events in Scotland.
There is also an art festival, with exhibitions across the city’s galleries. Each festival has its own box office and programme. Knowing which is which helps you plan.
2. Book accommodation early
Accommodation in Edinburgh during August is in huge demand, and it books up many months ahead. Prices rise sharply, often to several times the usual rate. The earlier you book, the better your choice and price.
Staying outside the centre can be far better value. Leith and Portobello, both within easy reach of the centre by bus or tram, have plenty of places to stay. Many visitors stay across the Forth in Fife, or in towns such as Linlithgow, and travel in by train.
In August, university student accommodation is often let to festival visitors, and it can be a good value option. Some residents rent out their homes for the month. There are also campsites on the edge of the city.
Wherever you stay, check how you will get back after late shows, as many finish well after midnight. Buses run late during the festival, and taxis are in high demand. A car booked ahead for a late journey back can be a relief.
3. Mix booked shows with gambles
The best way to enjoy the Fringe is to book a few shows you really want to see, then leave space for surprises. Big names and popular shows sell out, so book them early. But the magic of the Fringe is in the unexpected.
Walk along the Royal Mile, where performers hand out flyers and put on free tasters of their shows. Many shows are free, with a bucket at the end for donations, and some of them are brilliant. The best thing you see might be the one you never planned.
Reviews in newspapers and on websites, and word of mouth from other visitors, are good guides to what is worth seeing. The Fringe has an app and a huge printed programme listing every show. The Half Price Hut sells discounted tickets for shows on the day.
The main venues, such as those around the Pleasance, George Square and the Assembly Rooms, are hubs with bars and food, and they are lively places to spend an evening. Try to see a mix of comedy, theatre, music and something completely different.
4. Walk, and allow time
Edinburgh is a compact city, and walking is usually the quickest way to get between venues. But the Old Town is steep and full of steps, and during the festival the streets are packed with slow moving crowds. Allow twice as long as you think between venues.
Many venues are clustered in the Old Town and around the university, but others are spread across the New Town, Leith and beyond. Check the location of each venue before you book, and plan your day so that you are not rushing across the city. Missing the start of a show is easy.
Lothian buses and the tram are useful for longer journeys. Some streets in the city centre are closed to traffic during the festival. Wear comfortable shoes.
Take time to enjoy the atmosphere as well as the shows. Sitting in a courtyard bar watching the crowds go by is part of the experience. The whole city feels like one big party.
5. Bring layers
Scottish weather in August can be hot, wet and windy in a single afternoon. Bring layers, a waterproof jacket and an umbrella, and be ready for anything. Evenings can be cool, even in summer.
Many venues are indoors, but queues are often outside, and some shows are in tents or outdoor spaces. The Tattoo, on the castle esplanade, is outdoors and goes ahead in most weather, so dress warmly for it. A rain poncho can be useful.
Keep your phone charged, as you will use it for tickets, maps and the Fringe app. A small portable charger is a good idea. Carry water and snacks.
Finally, pace yourself. Seeing five or six shows a day is possible, but it is exhausting. Leave time to rest, eat and explore the rest of the city.
Arriving and leaving
Edinburgh Airport is about eight miles west of the city. In August the roads into the centre are busy and some streets close, so book your airport transfer ahead and add your flight number, which goes to your driver. Agree a pickup point on the edge of the Old Town rather than the Royal Mile itself.
See our Edinburgh guide for the rest of the city, from the castle to Leith.
Ride with ZeroLanes. A car booked ahead, at a price fixed before you confirm, with the driver and the car on your journey page before pickup. Book an airport transfer.