A Norman cathedral and castle on a wooded peninsula above a river bend: Durham has one of the most dramatic settings of any city in Europe.
Durham is small, but few cities anywhere make such an impression on first sight. The River Wear loops almost all the way around a steep, wooded rock, and on top of it stand a great Norman cathedral and a castle, side by side, as they have for more than nine hundred years. Seen from the train as it crosses the viaduct, or from the riverbanks below, it is one of the great views of Europe.
For centuries Durham was ruled by the Prince Bishops, who governed this frontier region almost like kings, with their own army, courts and coins. Today it is a lively university city with cobbled streets, riverside walks and a proud mining heritage. This guide covers six things to see and do, and how to get there.
1. Durham Cathedral
Durham Cathedral is one of the finest Norman buildings in the world. It was begun in 1093 to house the remains of St Cuthbert, the most popular saint in the north of England, and most of it was built in just forty years. Together with the castle, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Inside, massive stone pillars carved with zigzags, spirals and diamonds hold up one of the earliest stone rib vaults in Europe. The effect is of enormous strength and calm. Behind the high altar is the shrine of St Cuthbert, a simple stone slab where pilgrims have prayed for centuries.
At the western end, in the Galilee Chapel, lies the tomb of the Venerable Bede, the monk who wrote the first history of the English people. On the north door is a copy of the famous sanctuary knocker, a bronze lion’s head that fugitives once grabbed to claim protection from the church. The original is kept safe inside.
The cathedral’s cloisters appeared in the early Harry Potter films. The Open Treasure exhibition, in the old monastic buildings, displays the cathedral’s greatest treasures, including items found in St Cuthbert’s coffin. You can climb the central tower, more than three hundred steps up, for views over the city and the countryside. Entry to the cathedral is free, with charges for the exhibition and the tower.
2. Durham Castle
Durham Castle was founded in 1072, just six years after the Norman Conquest, on the orders of William the Conqueror. For centuries it was the palace of the Prince Bishops, who ruled the County Palatine of Durham on behalf of the king. It stands across Palace Green from the cathedral.
Since 1837 the castle has been home to University College, part of Durham University, which makes it one of the few castles in the world where students live. They eat in the magnificent Great Hall, built in the fourteenth century. The castle is still very much a working building.
Because students live there, the castle can only be visited on guided tours, which are usually led by students and full of stories. Highlights include the Norman chapel, with its carved pillars, and the black staircase, a grand wooden staircase built in the seventeenth century. The tours give a real sense of a building that has been in use for more than nine hundred years.
Tours run at set times and can be booked ahead, and the castle is sometimes closed for university events. Palace Green, between the castle and the cathedral, is a lovely open space. The Palace Green Library holds exhibitions from the university’s collections.
3. The riverbanks and Prebends Bridge
The River Wear wraps around the peninsula on which Durham is built, and its wooded banks are one of the loveliest places in the city. A path runs along both sides of the river, below the cathedral and the castle. Walking the full loop takes about an hour at a gentle pace.
Prebends Bridge, an elegant stone bridge built in the eighteenth century, has the most famous view of the cathedral, rising above the trees and reflected in the water. Lines by Sir Walter Scott praising the view are carved on a plaque on the bridge. It is especially beautiful at dawn and in autumn.
You can hire rowing boats from the riverside near Elvet Bridge, and in summer a cruise boat takes visitors along the river. Rowers from the university’s colleges are often out on the water. Durham Regatta, one of the oldest rowing regattas in Britain, is held each summer.
Along the way, look out for old mills, weirs and small bridges. The walk is peaceful, even in the centre of the city. Framwellgate Bridge and Elvet Bridge, two medieval bridges, link the peninsula with the rest of the city.
4. Beamish, the Living Museum of the North
Beamish, about ten miles north west of Durham, is one of the most popular museums in the north of England. It is an open air museum that brings to life the history of the North East. Historic buildings from across the region have been moved here and rebuilt.
The museum is divided into different areas, each showing a different period. There is a town from the early twentieth century, with shops, a bank, a sweet shop and a pub. There is a colliery village with a working mine you can go down, a farm and a Georgian manor house.
Newer areas show life in the 1940s and 1950s, with homes, shops and a cinema. Costumed staff bring the buildings to life, and you can buy food made to old recipes, from bread to fish and chips cooked in beef dripping. Old trams and buses carry visitors around the huge site.
Beamish is a brilliant day out for all ages, and a whole day is not too long. Tickets usually let you return for a year. It is best reached by car, as public transport is limited.
5. Lumiere and Durham’s festivals
Lumiere is a festival of light that transforms Durham over several evenings in November, usually every two years. Artists from around the world light up the cathedral, the castle, the streets and the river with spectacular installations. It draws huge crowds.
Past festivals have projected images onto the cathedral’s towers, floated light installations on the river and filled the streets with glowing sculptures. The atmosphere is magical. Some parts of the festival require free tickets, which are released in advance.
Durham also hosts the Durham Miners’ Gala each July, one of the largest gatherings of its kind in Britain. Brass bands and colourful banners from the old mining communities march through the streets. It is a proud celebration of the region’s mining heritage.
Other events include book festivals and the regatta. During big events, the city is very busy, so plan ahead. A car booked for the journey home saves waiting for trains or taxis afterwards.
6. Museums and gardens
Durham has several excellent museums run by the university. The Oriental Museum is one of the best collections of art and archaeology from Asia and North Africa in Britain, with objects from ancient Egypt to China. Entry is modest, and it is fascinating.
The Durham University Botanic Garden, on the edge of the city, has glasshouses, woodland and gardens from around the world. It is a peaceful place for a walk. There is a café.
Crook Hall, a medieval manor house with lovely gardens just outside the city centre, is looked after by the National Trust. Its gardens have been described as one of the most romantic in England. It is a lovely place to escape the crowds.
The Durham Museum and Heritage Centre, in an old church, tells the story of the city. Durham’s cobbled streets, including Saddler Street and Silver Street, are lined with shops and cafés. The Market Place has an indoor market in a Victorian hall.
Getting there and getting around
Durham station is on the East Coast Main Line, with direct trains to London King’s Cross in around three hours, and to Newcastle in around fifteen minutes. The view from the viaduct as the train approaches is one of the best in Britain.
Newcastle Airport is about twenty five miles north, around half an hour by road, and Teesside International Airport is about twenty miles south. The A1(M) runs just east of the city. The centre is compact but hilly, and much of it is closed to cars, so a car booked ahead is the easiest way to arrive with luggage and to reach Beamish and the countryside.
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