Two-tier medieval shopping streets, the most complete city walls in Britain and the country’s oldest racecourse: Chester has two thousand years of history in a small space.
Chester was founded by the Romans almost two thousand years ago as a fortress called Deva, home to a legion of soldiers. In the Middle Ages it was a busy port and market town, and in the Victorian age it became a popular place to visit. Each era has left its mark on the city.
Today Chester is one of the most attractive small cities in Britain. Its black and white timber framed buildings, city walls and cathedral make it a joy to explore on foot, and it sits close to the Welsh border, the North Wales coast and the Cheshire countryside. This guide covers six things to see and do, and how to get there.
1. The Rows
The Rows are Chester’s most famous feature, and there is nothing quite like them anywhere else in the world. They are covered walkways at first floor level, running along the four main streets of the old city, with shops on two levels, one at street level and one above. They date back to the thirteenth century.
Nobody is quite sure why the Rows were built this way. One theory is that the rubble of Roman buildings made it easier to build on top of them. Whatever the reason, they create a unique shopping experience, with galleries of shops above the streets, reached by steps.
Many of the black and white timber framed buildings along the Rows look medieval, but a large number were actually built or rebuilt by the Victorians, in a style inspired by the originals. A few genuine medieval buildings survive, some with vaulted undercrofts below street level. Look carefully and you can spot the difference.
The Rows are lined with shops, cafés and restaurants, from department stores to small independent businesses. They are busy at weekends and during the summer. At the heart of the old city, where the four streets meet, is the Cross, where the town crier sometimes makes proclamations.
2. The city walls
Chester’s city walls are the most complete city walls in Britain. They run for about two miles around the old city, and you can walk the whole circuit, which takes around an hour or two. The walls were begun by the Romans and rebuilt and extended in the Middle Ages.
The walk passes some of the city’s most important sights. On the Eastgate stands the famous Eastgate Clock, built to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee and one of the most photographed clocks in England. From the walls you get views over the cathedral, the racecourse and the River Dee.
Along the way are several towers. King Charles’ Tower is said to be where King Charles I watched his army lose a battle nearby in 1645, during the Civil War. Other towers and gates have their own stories.
The walk is free and open at all times. It is mostly flat, but there are some steps. Parts of it can be busy in summer, so early morning or evening are good times to go.
3. The Roman amphitheatre and Roman Chester
Just outside the city walls, near the Newgate, are the remains of the largest Roman amphitheatre yet discovered in Britain. It could once hold several thousand people, who came to watch gladiators and military training. Only part of it has been uncovered, as buildings still stand on the rest.
You can walk around the remains, which are free to visit. Information boards explain how the amphitheatre was used. Nearby, the Roman Gardens display columns and stones from Roman buildings found around the city.
The Grosvenor Museum, in the city centre, has one of the best collections of Roman tombstones in Britain, many of them carved with images of the soldiers who served in the legion. It also has galleries on the city’s history, art and natural history. It is free to visit.
In summer, soldiers in Roman armour sometimes march through the streets on guided tours for children, which are fun and informative. Chester’s Roman past is everywhere once you start looking. The city was one of the most important military bases in Roman Britain.
4. Chester Cathedral
Chester Cathedral was founded as a Benedictine abbey in 1092, on the site of an earlier church dedicated to St Werburgh. After Henry VIII closed the monasteries, it became a cathedral in 1541. Much of the building dates from the thirteenth to the sixteenth centuries.
The cathedral is famous for its carved wooden choir stalls, made in the fourteenth century, which are among the finest in the country. They are carved with animals, people and scenes from stories. Look out for the elephant with horse’s feet, carved by someone who had clearly never seen one.
The cloister, with its peaceful garden, is one of the best preserved monastic cloisters in England. The refectory, where the monks once ate, is now a café. Tower tours take you up to the roof for views over the city and into Wales.
The cathedral hosts concerts, exhibitions and events through the year. Entry is free, though there is a charge for tower tours. It is a short walk from the Eastgate, and the café in the old refectory makes a good place to rest.
5. Chester Racecourse and the River Dee
Chester Racecourse, known as the Roodee, lies just outside the city walls beside the River Dee. Racing has taken place here since the early sixteenth century, and it is said to be the oldest racecourse still in use in England. It is a small, tight, circular course, and you can watch the racing from the city walls.
Race days are some of the biggest social events in the city, especially the May Festival, when crowds dress up for a day out. The atmosphere is lively and fun. There are races through the spring and summer.
The River Dee runs along the southern edge of the city. The Groves, a tree lined riverside promenade, is a lovely place for a walk, with cafés, ice cream and boats for hire. River cruises leave from here in summer.
The Queen’s Park suspension bridge crosses the river to the south side, and the Old Dee Bridge, built in the fourteenth century, crosses it further along. Rowing boats are available to hire. The riverside is especially lovely on a summer evening.
6. Chester Zoo
Chester Zoo, on the northern edge of the city, is the most visited zoo in the UK and one of the best in Europe. It covers more than a hundred and twenty acres and is home to thousands of animals from hundreds of species. Many of them are rare and endangered.
The zoo is well known for its conservation work, both in the zoo and in the wild around the world. Its enclosures are large and designed to feel like natural habitats. Highlights include the Islands zone, which recreates the islands of South East Asia, and the elephants, big cats and apes.
There is so much to see that a whole day is not too long. The zoo is very popular with families, and it gets very busy in the school holidays. Arriving early is the best way to beat the crowds.
Tickets are cheaper when booked online in advance. There are cafés and restaurants around the site. The zoo is about ten minutes from the city centre by car, and buses run from the city.
Where to eat and drink
Afternoon tea is a Chester tradition, and there are several lovely tea rooms in the Rows and around the city. For pubs, the city has some very old ones, including some in timber framed buildings, and riverside pubs along the Dee.
Chester also has a good choice of restaurants, from independent bistros to places serving food from around the world. Cheshire is known for its cheese, and it is worth trying some while you are here.
Beyond the city
Chester is close to the Welsh border, and North Wales is within easy reach. The castles of Conwy and Caernarfon, the mountains of Eryri and the seaside town of Llandudno are all within about an hour and a half. Closer to home, the Cheshire countryside has country houses, gardens and pretty villages.
Cheshire Oaks, one of the largest designer outlet centres in the country, is a short drive north of the city. Liverpool and Manchester are both under an hour away.
Getting there and getting around
Chester station is about a ten minute walk from the city walls. Direct trains run from London Euston in around two hours, and there are services to Manchester, Liverpool, North Wales and Cardiff.
Liverpool John Lennon Airport is about twenty five miles away, around forty minutes by road, and Manchester Airport is about thirty five miles away, around forty five minutes. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Chester and the airports, and to reach Chester Zoo, Cheshire Oaks and North Wales.
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