The Granite City sparkles when the sun catches its silver stone, with a fishing village inside the city, a long sandy beach and Royal Deeside to the west.
Aberdeen is Scotland’s third largest city, standing between the mouths of the rivers Dee and Don on the North Sea coast. Much of it is built of local grey granite, which sparkles like silver when the sun shines on the tiny crystals in the stone, earning it the name the Granite City. Since the 1970s it has been the oil capital of Europe, the base for the industry in the North Sea.
Aberdeen is a proud, prosperous city with a long history, two universities, a busy harbour and a sandy beach. It is also the gateway to Royal Deeside, the Cairngorms and a coast and countryside dotted with more castles than almost anywhere else in Britain. This guide covers six things to see and do.
1. Footdee
Footdee, known to locals as Fittie, is a tiny fishing village at the mouth of Aberdeen harbour, just a short walk from the city centre. It was laid out in the early nineteenth century as homes for the city’s fishermen. Its rows of small cottages are arranged around little squares.
The cottages face inwards onto the squares, with their backs to the sea to shelter from the wind. Over the years, residents have filled the squares with colourful sheds, gardens and quirky decorations made from things washed up by the sea. It is one of the most charming corners of any Scottish city.
Footdee is a real community, so please be respectful of the people who live there. Wander quietly through the squares and enjoy the details. The contrast between the tiny village and the huge ships in the harbour next door is striking.
From Footdee, you can watch ships coming and going from the harbour, and you may spot dolphins. The beach begins just north of the village. It is a lovely place for a stroll at any time of day.
2. Aberdeen Maritime Museum
The Aberdeen Maritime Museum, on the harbour front, tells the story of Aberdeen’s long relationship with the sea. It covers shipbuilding, fishing and the North Sea oil and gas industry. Entry is free.
The museum’s highlight is a huge model of an oil platform, several storeys high, which explains how the industry works in the harsh conditions of the North Sea. There are also displays about the city’s famous fast clipper ships, built in its shipyards in the nineteenth century. Children love the interactive exhibits.
Part of the museum is in Provost Ross’s House, built in 1593, one of the oldest buildings in Aberdeen. The views from the museum over the busy harbour are wonderful. You can watch supply ships heading out to the oil rigs.
Nearby, Aberdeen Art Gallery, reopened after a major renovation, has a fine collection of Scottish and international art, and it is also free. Marischal College, a huge granite building on Broad Street, is said to be the second largest granite building in the world. Its ornate Gothic front is spectacular.
3. Old Aberdeen
Old Aberdeen, about a mile north of the city centre, feels like a separate village, with cobbled streets, old stone houses and the buildings of the University of Aberdeen. It was once a separate burgh. It is one of the most peaceful parts of the city.
King’s College, founded in 1495, is the heart of the university. Its chapel, with a tower topped by a stone crown, is one of the finest medieval buildings in Scotland. The university is one of the oldest in the English speaking world.
St Machar’s Cathedral, at the northern end of Old Aberdeen, has twin spires and a remarkable painted wooden ceiling covered with the coats of arms of kings, nobles and churchmen. It stands close to the River Don. The cathedral is free to visit.
The Cruickshank Botanic Garden, belonging to the university, is a lovely place to walk. Seaton Park, beside the cathedral, runs down to the river. The walk through Old Aberdeen is one of the loveliest in the city.
4. Aberdeen Beach
Aberdeen Beach stretches for about two miles north of the harbour, a wide sweep of golden sand facing the North Sea. It is one of the best city beaches in Britain. The promenade runs along its length.
The beach is popular for walking, running and surfing. On sunny days, families come to play on the sand. The water is cold, even in summer, but some brave swimmers enjoy it.
At the southern end, near the harbour mouth, bottlenose dolphins are often seen hunting fish. The area around Torry Battery, on the south side of the harbour, is one of the best places in Europe to see dolphins from the land. Bring binoculars.
Along the beach are cafés, restaurants, a leisure centre and an amusement park. The Beach Ballroom, an art deco dance hall from the 1920s, is a local landmark. The beach is a short walk or bus ride from the city centre.
5. Royal Deeside and Balmoral
Royal Deeside, the valley of the River Dee west of Aberdeen, is one of the most beautiful parts of Scotland. It earned its royal name when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert fell in love with the area and bought the Balmoral estate in the nineteenth century. The royal family still spends time there every summer.
Balmoral Castle, about an hour and a quarter west of Aberdeen, is open to visitors for part of the year, when the royal family is not in residence. You can see the ballroom, the gardens and the grounds. Crathie Kirk, nearby, is the church where the royal family worships.
Along the valley are pretty villages such as Ballater and Braemar, and castles including Crathes and Drum, both looked after by the National Trust for Scotland. The Braemar Gathering, a famous Highland games held each September, is often attended by members of the royal family. The Cairngorms National Park stretches beyond.
Royal Deeside is best explored by car, and a driver for the day lets you see the castles and the scenery without worrying about the roads. There are distilleries in the valley too, including Royal Lochnagar near Balmoral.
6. Dunnottar Castle and the castle trail
Dunnottar Castle, about twenty minutes south of Aberdeen near the town of Stonehaven, is one of the most dramatic castles in Scotland. Its ruins stand on a huge flat topped rock, surrounded on three sides by cliffs dropping into the sea. It is a breathtaking sight.
The castle has a long and turbulent history. In the seventeenth century, the Honours of Scotland, the Scottish crown jewels, were hidden here from Oliver Cromwell’s army during a long siege, and then smuggled out. It is one of the great stories of Scottish history.
Reaching the castle involves a steep walk down and up many steps, but the views are worth it. The clifftop path from Stonehaven to the castle is a lovely walk. Stonehaven itself has a pretty harbour and good fish and chips.
Aberdeenshire is known as Scotland’s castle country, with a trail of castles including Fyvie, Craigievar, with its pink walls and turrets, and many more. A driver for the day makes it easy to visit several of them.
Where to eat and drink
Aberdeen is famous for its seafood, landed at the harbour, and for Aberdeen Angus beef, known around the world. The local breakfast treat is the buttery, also called a rowie, a flaky, salty bread roll rich in butter. It is best eaten warm.
The city centre has a good choice of restaurants, and the beach and harbour areas have seafood restaurants. Aberdeen also hosts a street art festival that has filled the city’s walls with large murals.
Getting there and getting around
Aberdeen station is in the city centre, with trains to Edinburgh in around two and a half hours, to Glasgow and Inverness, and direct trains to London. The Caledonian Sleeper runs overnight from London Euston.
Aberdeen Airport, at Dyce, is about seven miles north west of the city centre, with flights across Britain and to Europe. Ferries sail from the harbour to Orkney and Shetland. A car booked ahead is the easiest way to travel between Aberdeen, the airport and the ferry terminal, and to explore Royal Deeside and the castles.
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